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Battery Jump

This is a discussion on Battery Jump within the Motorcycle Safety forums, part of the General category; Hey Olds, Dont take this as an argument, what you are saying is correct and I easily defer to your ...


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Old 07-06-2010   #21
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Hey Olds,
Dont take this as an argument, what you are saying is correct and I easily defer to your statements. Consider it a learning experience for me !

"The small size of the extension cord acts as a resistor and lowers the amperage,but still gives the 12 V needed to start the bike."

In my response I wasnt implying that Voltage was the culprit but Amperage. Increasing the resistance with the smaller wire gives the same voltage, but cuts the amperage (Current) flow down.I believe,again defering to you, amperage to be the culprit that fries the bikes electronics.
Check this out : 12 volts with 5 ohms resitance = 2.4 amps
12 volts with 20 ohms resistance =0.6 Amps I=E/R
Am I using the wrong formula ?
Consider me the student that keeps raising his hand for questions..a little dense,but trying to understand
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Old 07-06-2010   #22
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I remove my hat and bow in respect, Grendl! You clearly have your hands around Ohm's law and the fundamentals of electricity.

(by the way... I found our exchange most enjoyable and informative!)
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Old 07-23-2010   #23
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just do not over charge the battery.

a motorcycle battery is 12 volts but a much lower amps.

using a larger battery is a heavy duty boost, but your putting too much amperage into the smaller battery.

what some folks do... er...
well..

Disconnect the ground from the motorcycle battery.
attach the positive leads.
attach the ground from the cables to the chasis of the bike.
then attach the other ground to the good battery or chasis.

when you get the bike started, remove the cables and
connect the ground back to the battery.

if it does not hold it's own, you got a problem...

a little powerbox is ideal for a bike boost.

but if your boosting a battery you have a problem somewhere.

some guys have to do it after the winter...

some guys just disconnect the battery before the winter storage.

sometimes its time to buy a new battery or check the specific gravity of it...

battery's are a large topic.

either they work, or they don't.

they may appear to be good.. 'its got 12v on the meter' 'lights the headlamp' but will not start the bike.. (not enough amps, bad cells.. ect..)

charging systems and voltage regulation, rectifiers, and diodes are other topics... again all part of the battery situation sometimes..

observation of proper polarity is a must, check it with a meter if in doubt. check to see if the bike is neg or pos ground..

usage of a amp meter will give you a indication if your bike is charging the battery.

make sure that if your doing it from a auto battery, that the auto engine is not running.

if your doing repeated start attempts and killed the bike battery, and then you try to boost, try to avoid over running the starter motor in the bike. you can over heat the starter and or mess up your bendix drive or other parts of the starting system.

it is much more easy and cost effective to replace the battery than if you blow the regulator circut doing a boost.

Small portable chargers are good at providing a little amperage trickle to charge a battery after 10 to 15 hours...

** HOWEVER... Small Chargers often do not have reliable internal voltage regulation. so you should remove the ground from the battery and directly attach the charger to the battery. some chargers can put out upwards of 18v... sometimes not within the tollerance of sensitive electronics. the same can also happen when doing a boost from a running automobile.

if you use a small portable battery charger, sometimes it is best to remove the battery from the bike and place it in a ventalated area, and charge it that way.. (eliminates spiking electronics on the bike from a charger..)

use of a inexpensive amp meater as part of a typical multimeter can easily show you when your battery is charged, or is charging.

what you can not see, is when you have a bad cell in the battery... it will slowly drain the battery when not in use. this can also produce a added strain on the internal charging system in the electronics on a bike. this then can lead to other issues.. including costly repairs to the electronics.

if its just a simple issue, you know that you had the lights left on and the bike was not started.. you know why you lost the juice in your battery...

when you loose the power in your battery, and you do not know why, you should find out. it can be a indication of other issues or the possibility of ending up somewhere and breaking down.

if your reading this and scratching your head, then you should speak to someone who knows what they are doing, and check your battery and charging system properly.

look at it in this way laymans example... when you go into a darkened room, you turn on the light switch you get light... however at some point, when you do, your going to see that bright flash, and then its blown and you have to replace the bulb.. boosting a bike improperly can have a similar result, depending on the situation and could also result in a costly repair of a electrical component.

Last edited by murraykj709; 07-23-2010 at 04:57 PM. Reason: additions..
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