Tropics to the Arctic - A Ride Across the Continent

I thought there might be some people here who would like to follow my trip, so I'm going back and posting some of my previous days up to now. Enjoy...



"I can go where no one else can go
I know what no one else knows
Here I am just drownin' in the rain
With a ticket for a runaway train

And Everything seems cut and dry
Day and Night, earth and sky
Somehow, I just don't believe it"

Soul Asylum


The last 48 hours are counting down of a three year plan, and a life long dream to ride to the lands of the great white north....with a few detours in between. Here shortly I'll start my last day offshore and hopefully will be flying home tomorrow. You would think that a journey spread out over six weeks wouldn't be affected much by weather, but as every biker knows, it's not what you run into on the road as much as what you start out in. God willing, things may clear up over the next 24 hours and enable the helicopters to fly, but for now mother nature is planted firmly between my first stretch......point A to point B.





This thread is going to be my journal along the way. Updated at points that I am able to with pictures, thoughts, friends, and surprises. So far, the over all plan is to GET HOME, get the bike, and head southeast to Key West, Fl. along with the fellowship of a good buddy, Nickatnite. You may have even seen our preparation ramblings in this thread....
http://www.dualsportridersoflouisian...ead.php?t=3260
I'll get the appropriate witnesses and be keeping track of all the paperwork I need to qualify for an Iron Butt Association Ultimate Coast to Coast. From there we'll start heading northwest, working our way through dixieland until he peels off to head back home. At that point I'll continue on solo across the mid-west and up the rockies. I'll follow the mountains on into Canada and latch on to the Alcan Hwy through Alberta, British Columbia and the Yukon Territory. Once in Alaska, with a new set of TKC's spooned on in Anchorage, I'll head up the Dalton Haul Road, across the Arctic Circle, to Deadhorse where I should fulfill my I.B.A. requirements and achieve a long time dream of mine.

With all of that done, this Lewsianna Mud Bug will get to spend two weeks exploring Alaska with no schedules or commitments with the one exception of meeting up with an old friend at some point in Anchorage. At the point that I am ready to head south, I'll have another 10-12 days to ride back to the bayous of South Louisiana via the west coast, the Pacific Coast Hwy, and across the desert of the Southwest.

This will be double both the time and miles in comparison to anything I've done before, and SHOULD all be on one bike. The machine is a 2005 BMW R1200GS preped for just this type of adventure. I'll try my best to keep things updated, but bare with me.....this is going to be a long one!

And just like that.....it's time to go. I JUST finished loading the bike and getting everything situated. I even managed to find time to get my yard cut this evening!

2EVIL4U....You are the MAN!!! I arrived home to find this along with the rest of my packages.



Thanks man! They'll certainly come in handy.

Right now I'm too tired to be outwardly excited, but I feel it swirling down deep. With everything on the bike I swung a leg over and relaxed back in the seat, my hands coming to rest naturaly on the grips and I couldn't help but to crack a smile. My eyes are heavy from the buzz of the day and yet my cheeks still manage to pull back and allow a slight giggle to break from deep in my chest. Rain, wind, sun, or night......I'm needing every mile of this. Now I'm off to bed. In six hours I'll start mile number one.

My alarm clock started yelling at me way too early it seemed, but it was nothing to jump straight out of bed and start to review the list I made the night before of last minute tasks. I left the house later than I would have liked, but made decent time in the early summer morning. Traffic wasn't bad at all in New Orleans, and I pulled into the parking lot to see this guy as jittery as a labrador on the morning of the big hunt!







We agreed to drive off the first 100 miles before stopping for breakfast. In long ride report tradition, here's the first meal of the ride.




I'll be capturing a few states for my points in the race while on this trip.




At the first fill up, Nick noticed that his new TT canister was developing a blister from the heat of his exhaust. Not really a good thing when you consider that it was full of gasoline!!







So we emptied half of the can into my tank to help relieve some of the pressure in the swollen container and then strapped it to the luggage instead of next to the exhaust. The can on the back of my Jesse's is in the exact same place, but with the Rhemus can routing the hot gasses a little further away, it wasn't getting nearly as hot.




The ride was nice and both Nick and I were enjoying the road. At some point he noticed that my rear tire was vibrating pretty bad, and at certain higher speeds I could feel it as well. Upon inspection it seemed fine and the final drive was solid without any play in it, but the thought of Chappy's warning was in the back of my mind and I thought it might be the tire spinning on the rim. I decided to just keep an eye on it over the next day.










Count another one...




Even with the sun out, it wasn't too hot and barely got above 90 all day. I'd say this just about sums it up.




Most of you know that I-10 East across the gulf south is nothing really exciting and there's not much to see. We did our best to amuse ourselves with what we had, and by the time mid-afternoon rolled around we were ready for the cheap games. This seems to be all I could get.....damn complicated puzzle.




This HAD to have been written by an oilfield hand!! And no, it's not all that painful.




We finally made it to Orlando around 7pm and rolled up to my sister's apartment. We parked the bikes in the garage as we said our "hello's" and introductions. After a glass of cold water and a few phone calls, we decided that everyone was ready for dinner and we headed out. I planned to treat her to dinner for her 28th birthday which was only a few days earlier.




So of course she picked...



....in Downtown Disney.

An hour and 45min. wait was reduced to 20min. with their premium season park pass or something like that. She and her fiancee, Rick, proceeded to drag us around some of the shops in the mean time. There's plenty of trouble to get into come to find out and of course we had to push some of the barriers. No, the armrest is NOT just some random kid, but rather Rick's son, Aric. He's already on the right track to fitting in around here! lol.







You really can't tell how tired we were. 700 miles, 17 hours, and walking from B.F.E. where we parked really was starting to wear on us.




A really good picture of the birthday girl and the "bruda-n-law".




....and I thought 5 year olds got excited when their cup lit up!




Das what I'm talkin 'bout.




My dear sister "T" allowed us to borrow her car while we kept the bikes safe in the garage. Nick and I drove to the hotel down the street where I had a reservation all set. With the A/C on sub-zero, and each our own bed, we did our best to keep the rest of the block awake. For two oilfield hands, it wasn't that hard to do.

We woke up kinda late and took our time to get everything together. A short drive over to Theresa's and we got to enjoy a home cooked breakfast of pancakes, turkey bacon (mmmmmmm), and eggs w/ ham. The perfect start to any ride! We preped the bikes, said our "good-byes" and headed out.




I didn't get very many pictures during the swim down to the keys, but Nick (with his new waterproof camera), I'm sure, will be posting up plenty that he took along the way. About 60 miles south of Orlando it started coming down on us like we owed mother nature money!! About the biggest sight of the whole day was lunch where we helped Chic-fil-A celebrate...




We started down to the keys and the GPS was showing that the rain was slacking off. We decided to get a room in Islamorada as dark was falling and figured we'd be able to ride down to Key West in the morning with sunshine and clear skys. The first channel that the TV found was the weather channel while we unpacked the Jesses. Somewhere in the midst of wringing out clothes, hanging up wet gear, or laughing about all the rain, we hear in the background something along the lines of "Tropical Storm Barry". Nick and I just look at each other and explode into laughter!!!




It would figure that on the first day of Hurricane season, we would have to ride/sit through a storm! After watching my future wife (I'm still waiting on her to return my calls) show the projected path taking Barry higher up the coast we decided that we'd continue on with riding down to Key West in the morning like we originally planned. Thanks dear...




Here ya go spdoll....as promised. Yea, it's at night, but it's still a beach! lol
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Ultimate%20Coast%20to%20Coast/IMG_3596.jpg

The wind was howling across the island but the thunderstorms seemed to be just about finished for now.




It really is amazing how much weight the R1200GS can hold, and that fact becomes quite obvious when you're hauling Jesse boxes back and forth from a room. The A/C in the room was so cold that when we brought everything out into the tropical humidity it was instantly wet. Jackets included....oops.

We headed south for the end of the road and it was nice to see the turquoise water in the daylight and the wind wasn't TOO bad. Although, riding across the 7 miles bridge was like running through a gauntlet of invisible giants set on shaking the bike apart by beating it side to side. Finally, we made it to the famous Key, and did a worthy water crossing just to get to the marker! There was a band of thunderstorms about 15 miles off the coast behind us that was coming fast. The waves were slamming against the rocks behind the buoy as well causing sea water to cover us. I think the guy who was taking the picture for us, made us sit and wait on purpose.










So, now that THAT was done, I needed to find my witnesses and get the paperwork finished to start my Ultimate Coast to Coast. I found a couple of cops who were detailing an auction of some sort, but after numerous questions of whether or not it was for a probation witness, I could tell that he probably wouldn't get it. Even with my explanations of the I.B.A. and the ride I was doing, they still refused and suggested I go try at the courthouse. Uuuuummm.....dude, it's Saturday. So with no love from the L.E.O.'s, we figured we'd just go eat and figure it out later.

I found a tourist help desk to find out where a decent place might be. Trying to find a parking place NEXT TO a restaurant is almost impossible down here. When the girl asked where I was riding from I said "Louisiana"......she replied, "What part"........"Houma, it's just west of...". "I helped organize Southland Mall", she interrupted. Come to find out she's from Thibodeaux and moved to the keys years ago! Well, she became my first witness!

The restaurant that she recommended wasn't quite what we were looking for so we rode on and found this...




The girls in the juice bar were talking outside and as we walked closer I noticed it was in Russian! We took a table and ordered some brunch. By the time we were finished eating, I had acquired the manager's signature as a witness, as well as the same from the girl at the juice bar. Man I love accents! So the only remaining obligations I had left was to fill up and obtain a gas receipt with the time, date, and place.

Done...




The weather was cooperating for the most part with the occasional shower that we would ride through. We figured it would help wash the saltwater off of the bikes, so it was welcomed. The 2 1/2 hours of riding through the keys can be pretty long with low speed limits and plenty of Grandma's holding things up, but the scenery's nice...










At some point Nick demonstrates the effectiveness of a coon-ass camelbak...




We rode up to the mainland and decided to take the west coast of Florida back up. We jumped on Hwy 41 which cuts straight through the Everglades and finally got to relax into a steady pace. The afternoon was really nice and the road empty for the most part, just a looooong stretch off into the horizon. By the time we jumped on I-75 heading north, it was getting overcast and we decided to just ride as far as we could handle. The rest of the day was nothing but stringing together gas stops on into the late evening. By the time we reached Lake City, it was either split up and let Nick head west, or get a room for the night and wait till morning to head our separate ways. Since it was already 11pm, we chose the later.

Hopefully, by morning, our buddy Barry would be far enough north to where I wouldn't have to worry about any rain on my way to the midwest.

The morning came and it was a slow time getting things ready. We would be gaining an hour by riding back west so we took advantage of it by sending out emails, updating ride reports, and getting set for a long day in the saddle. It was a beautiful day, however, and by the time we made it outside to start packing the bikes the morning was almost gone. The temperature was in the high 70’s, a light breeze welcomed us, and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky…




We rolled on down I-75 for those last 4 miles and I saluted Nick on as he merged onto the exit for I-10. As I looked back to the road, I felt the sudden realization that I was going to be doing the rest of this ride by myself. I rolled off the throttle and let the big twin settle down into it’s steady pace between 65-70mph, looked up to the sky and just smiled. It was time to ride north.

From Key West on out I would have to keep track of all of my gas receipts, and a log of everywhere I stopped. This would prevent me from my regular rolling fill ups and force me to get off the bike at each gas stop, so I took advantage of the break for some quick breakfast.




This dude looked tired…




I headed north on into Georgia and discovered that the interstate there is just like the interstate in most places………boring. Sure, I could get off the superslab and ride up the back highways, but I can do that anytime. This ride isn’t so much about sight seeing in the south, but rather a timed endurance run and I don’t mind giving up some long miles now, for some scenic miles in the weeks ahead. Just south of Atlanta, I got a pretty scenic treat of bumper to bumper grid lock. It seemed as though a wreck had brought I-75 to a complete stand still and I decided to wait a bit to see if it would be moving anytime soon.

Anytime now…




Gosh, it’s getting hot…




Screw it….I took an exit and hit a side highway that took me about an hour and a half around the block. By the time I got back on 75 in mid-Atlanta things were flowing fine and I jumped in with the rest of the rat race. Not too much further I rolled on into TN and was able to get the Georgia sign as well that I missed earlier in the day while day dreaming. Oooops. Two more points for Ted.







The rest of the day was spent running hard along the interstate until I made it through Nashville and almost to Kentucky. Right around Clarksville, TN I decided I was close enough to Sedalia, MO to have a short ride tomorrow, and still be able to get a room at a decent time tonight. I could have gotten a campground, but I figure I’ll camp enough once I get to the Rockys. For now I’ll enjoy the A/C and soft bed…

I had set the alarm for 6am and it just seemed to come way too fast. Like I had done so many times before, I woke up by slowly getting all of my things together. Once again, the morning was absolutely gorgeous and with a quick check of the radar I saw that I'd be riding through clear skys yet again.

Not far up the road I pulled over for my next state shot...




By the time I made it to Illinois (which I didn't really know I was going through till I saw the sign) the mood of the day had been set.




There's something about riding through the heartland of the country that is rewarding in itself. The scenery is pretty much the same with every mile, but it allows you to focus on the freedom of the ride. The whole idea of seeing farmland and rolling hills stretch on around you seems to compliment the feeling of being seperated for so long from the masses.







The few cars that do pass you hold individuals who stretch their necks and look on with wonder as to your adventures and destinations. The road is becoming home and you see each of these as guests that you welcome, nod, and wave on. From their point of view, this is as long of a drive as it gets, but from my point of view, this is just a different kind of dance.










My mind takes me to plenty of places here, but of course, thoughts always seem to turn towards home when it's all said and done. With the music off, I settled down to listen to my thoughts once again and during a cool summer ride I can give them my undivided and uninterrupted attention. Sometimes the best therapy is just that long "talk" that you can have with yourself from time to time. These miles and this moment is why so many ride. With the wind in your breath, the sun on your shoulders, and the earth beneath you pulling you along....everything is conspiring for you to find peace. And you're free to look for it.







I came into St. Louis and finally got the see the Arch that has seemed to elude me so many times in my travels. With as often as I've been close I've just never seemed to make it here...




I ride halfway across Missouri to find Hwy. 65 and turn south to go find my friends. The stretch looking south kind of feels like a glance over my shoulder looking back home.




I rolled into Sedalia around 3:30pm and called Chris on his cell. He had just gotten off of work and met me only a few blocks from where I was. We headed to the house where I unloaded the bike and we both just plopped down on the couch under the ceiling fan. The rest of the evening was catching up and answering questions about the trip. Mike and Ginger stopped by as well around dinner and, as always, it was great to see them. I sure didn't think I'd be getting any home cooked meals on this trip, but I was definitely thankful for this one!!!!




We talked until late, and bed time was obvious. I'd have a loooong ride tomorrow to try and make it to Colorado across Kansas. I don't think I could have slept any better with an anesthesia!

It was really good seeing everybody again and Chris, I would have liked to stay another day, but everytime I think of all that I wish I could do I tell myself, "I can come back anytime. Alaska's waiting." We'll have to schedule a 4 wheeler ride up there some time. There's a few guys on here who get seriously turned on at the thought of mud and trails too. haha.

Still, as always, it was a somber morning to have to leave and even Ozzy didn't want me to go...




By the time I had got back on 70 and fueled up, I was really getting into the morning. There wasn't a cloud in the sky, the summer morning was fairly cool, and there was only a slight breeze. I also noticed that without the strong headwind, and only doing 65-70, the big GS was getting a lot better gas milage than the days prior. Taking iridefar's advice, I made sure to stop and smell the flowers along the way...




Kansas is just one big palate of rolling green, but the summer flowers did well to interupt the monotony from time to time...




I was closely watching the radar while I came upon the Colorado line and could see the storms rolling off of the range ahead of me. It didn't look good. The state park that I planned to stay at was just south of Denver and snuggled smack in the middle of some big splotches of green and yellow. Just after the state line I pulled in for gas. As I'm rocking the pig onto the centerstand, I notice the 6'4"ish clerk walking out of the antique station, onto the dusty pavement, and with a raspy voice he says, "Ohhh, a newer GS". His face is well tanned, and he is obviously native american. Come to find out, Ed is also an avid BMW rider with three of his own and a fond love of motorcycles. We talked for a while about the ride and how he came to own this station, but plans to sell it to start a historical information center with his wife further west. He showed me some pictures of riders who have come through and even his custom cooler he had made with a bike in the design. We went on for a good half hour, but knowing I had to move on, he wished me good luck and I was soon off again.

The clouds ahead of me were getting darker...




It seemed as if I was always just skirting the outside of the storms...







Finally, as I exited off of 70 and started to head west, I could make out Pike's Peak. It's probably close to 50 miles away.




I found the state park that I was eager to get to and it appeared that most of the storms were now to my east. Perhaps I'd have a dry night's sleep after all.




However, as I pulled up to the sign in board, I noticed at the bottom "Camping is Prohibited". W.T.H.??? What good is a state park if you can't camp on it?? Even the flowers that looked so perrrty and cuuute before seemed like a good thing to stomp and take out my frustrations on...HAHA. That'll teach them.




I rode around a bit more and headed north since I knew I wanted to ride up Mt. Evans the following day. After all, this IS Colorado. There's a camp ground for every 4 prisoners in this state! sheeesh. Eventually I stumbled across Chatfield State Park. $6 to get in and they had camping....SCHWEET!! However, once I was in I found out that it's ANOTHER $18 to camp since there are no primitive sights. Figures....ohhh well, I'm in my mountains!




As I unpacked, I finally got a good chance to go over the bike. I inspected everything and it all seemed to be doing well. My cracked Hella's picked up another rock somewhere in Florida and were now holy lights, but still worked just fine as the "Bully Blinders" that they have been so great at. My left turn signal switch was no longer coming on randomly, but rather not at all. I'm sure I've got a short in the switch, but it's not that big of a deal in the grand scheme. I entertain the thought that there are "lesser bikes" out there that wouldn't stand up to the beatings I put mine through and just let out a slight chuckle.




Dinner is a welcome treat, for even though it's freeze-dried, it's warm, moist, and flavorful. A major change from breakfast and lunch.




There's nothing quite like the sound of a MSR stove boiling water, a dry cool breeze on your face, a waiting tent, a 600 mile day behind you, and a failing light behind majestic mountains all around you. I just sat there, took a deep breath, and got the chills all at the same time. Home.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Ultimate%20Coast%20to%20Coast/IMG_3683.jpg

I really didn't sleep too good in the tent. It's been a while since I've done this many miles for this many days back to back and my shoulders are really taking the brunt of it. I'm sure my shoulders feel like a sack of potatoes with all of the knots that are in them, but stretching in the morning seems to help a lot. I break out the laptop and the GPS to upload the rest of the country, Canada, and Alaska to the maps and have to laugh when I see it all together. Now THIS is roughing it!!




This is why I love the mountains in the summer.




Ohh yea, you'd be smiling too.




I've got some video that I'll post later on today when I can get it uploaded, but for now the pictures will have to do. I got everything packed up and headed northwest towards Mt. Evans. Not knowing if there are any services in the area, I filled up in Golden, Co. For those of you who want to bitch about gas prices try this on for size.....$3.79 a gallon......for regular!

I follow the little green arrow on up the highway for a ways till I see the sign and jump onto the back road.




There were gorgeous sweepers and nice easy switchbacks the whole way up to the welcoming station. I took much delight in making sure my tires were well heated up for the trek to the top. hehe.




At this point, I took my camera out and put it around my neck. I turned it to movie mode, hit record and just stood up on the pegs for most of the ride up. As most of you know, I just hate having to stand up (yea right), but it worked great and I got some great footage. At one point in the tree line I started to see some snow......and then a bit more........and a bit more......and before you know it I pulled over to see if I could get enough to make a snowball.




The views from up here on this fairly clear day were just breathtaking!! And at 14,160 feet.....I mean that literally.




There was actually a sign that said "No Boating". uuummm......yea, no problem.










By the time I made it to the top, I could feel the altitude starting to get to me. Juice, you'd never make it up here brother! Just the act of getting off the bike and finding my winter gloves had me trying to catch my breath. The wind was howling at 40 and 50 knots according to the ranger at the top and I had to park the bike into it to keep it on the centerstand.




This is my idea of getting high!







Waaaaaaay off on the Hoizon you can see.......Louisiana.......or is that Pike's Peak? One of the two.




"Das a big 'ole step Pawpaw!!!"







Yup...40 degrees in the sun without wind chill!!




Because there is no permanent weather station up here, it's hard to tell exactly how bad it gets in the winter time, but according to the ranger it will get much harsher than even the Arctic. Wind speed well in excess of 200 mph are not uncommon, and if were measured constantly would probably break the record set up on Mt. Washington in Maine of 231mph. (Been there too...lol)








My new definition of "wanderlust"




What's left of the station on the summit.




On the way back down I was able to get a few angles that I couldn't before.




I came upon this herd of Rocky Mountain Big Horns and took it just slow enough not to spook them too much.




I was feeling better with each thousand feet I would descend. However, the weather associated with a cold front was gaining on me quick and the radar was starting to look like an easter egg with rain, sleet, hail and snow. Notice the temperature as well.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Ultimate%20Coast%20to%20Coast/IMG_3724.jpg

The radar wasn't just showing storms coming, but it was also showing them building on top of me. I pulled over into a gas station and got suited up for rain.




I debated over and over in my mind as to my next destination. Hoping to camp out in Rocky Mountain National Park was looking less and less like a good idea so I figured I'd just hit it all head on, go north into Wyoming, and hopefully catch the backside of the front and some clearer weather. On my way north I made sure to catch this picture and I notice snow flurries...




A few more curves past the divide, the storm rolls down and it lets loose...



<embed width="430" height="389" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://vidmg.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v679/RSTed1000/Snowypass_0001.flv"></embed>

I crank up the heated grips and head on north. I was going in and out of rain and sleet showers for most of the afternoon, but at one point I noticed a loud "WHACK" on the windshield.....then one hit me in the arm.....and one in the helmet. "Shit, it's hail!!" I figured I could just slow down and roll about 30mph through it, but then it came down like someone just spilled a bag of marbles. I looked to my left and saw a wooden building and could barely make out the sign that said "lunch specials" before I whipped the bike off the road, pulled up in the gravel, and ran inside with my tankbag in hand and my helmet still strapped to my head. The waitress looked at me and said, "Isss dat baad?"

I got a table and graciously waited out the storm by giving up my dedication of a gas station sandwich for a nice BLT and fries.

By the time I was done, things had passed and I noticed that the Harley I parked next to was still there. I was gearing up when the owner came out and we started chatting about the weather and their destination. "Where ya'll from?", I asked. "We live in New Orleans, but are riding in from Grand Junction today." I smiled and laughed. Gary and his wife are on their way up to Denver to see the Rockys for the first time and I assured them that they'll have to see it during better weather. It's not always like this.

Heading north I rolled on out of the big mountains and started on through the high rolling plains of northern Colorado. I would get rain and sleet from time to time, but nothing really strong and it would pass quickly.




I came upon the Arapaho Wildlife refuge and figured I'd see if I could get some decent pictures. At the least I'd get some practice on the gravel with the 150lbs of gear I was running.






















I got back on the highway around 3pm and figured I'd make it as far as I could. I was a day ahead of schedule if I could make it all the way to Cody, WY but the more I rode, the less I could take. The wind was now blowing at about 40 knots and had me riding sideways to keep the bike on the road. The rain would come and go, but wouldn't make the ride any better. The huge spots of purple and blue were becoming more pronounced and much bigger on the screen and I knew it was going to be a loooooong evening if I kept on.

While riding through Saratoga, Wyoming I saw a sign for a local motel with internet. I made a quick U-turn, whipped in, and gladly got a room. There's no A/C, but I don't think I'll need it. The owner is a young guy and his wife, probably the same age as me, and are trying to turn the place around. I turn on the weather channel and sure enough.....lows down to 31 with 3" of snow expected. I just shake my head....this is why I love the mountains in the summertime.