-The first one is only for post 98 single carburetor bikes
- the "Black Box" If you look on top of the valve cover of the front cylinder, you cant help but se that big black monstrosity. The bad thing about it(it's true purpose is to feed the VLX motor HOT intake air, for EPA reasons, which, of course all racers know, the hotter the intake air, the less HP a motor will make, 1/4 mile racers are even known to pack their intake systems in ICE between 1/4 mile passes to get the best times possible. So, on the rear of the triangular stock air filter housing, there is a band that attaches that box to the filter, undo that band, and remove the black box all together, put a screen of some type over the hole that is left where it attached to the filter, and then your engine will be sucking in cool ambient air from that point on, about a 2 or so HP increase.
- "Modified Holey order" Honda engineers spent a few million $$ "tuning" the exhaust system, so that due to the timing of the exhaust gas "pulses" passing through the pipes, there is actually a slight vacuum "waiting" at the exhaust valve when it opens, which aids in the scavenging of waste gasses, leaving more room for fresh explosive mixture. when you remove the entire baffle and it's packing material in the quest for a louder sound, you basically kill that tuning. another option, which keeps MOST(not all) of that tuning, is to take a half inch one foot long metal drill bit, and drill 3-5 holes through both the front and rear wall of each pipes baffle.(they are 3 inches apart) that way, you get that "SOUND" and still keep about 75% of the tuning. And, it is,while not as absolutely loud as if the baffle were gone,it IS a lot louder, and has a nice bass sound to it.
- this mod will cost you $20 at Honda parts dept. (that's what it cost me here in MT with no sales taxes) swap the FRONT drive sprocket from the stock 16 tooth, for a 15 tooth one. I cannot begin to tell you just how much of a difference the whole bikes "personality" is changed by this simple mod, you do not even need to remove the chain to do it, just loosen the rear wheel, and move it as far forward as it will go, using the same work that you would when you tighten your chain. the bike takes off without any clutch slipping, has a lot better take off, is only running about 75RPM faster at 75MPH than stock, but it's like you gave the engine a 10HP boost!
- Iridium Plugs- same part # (with IX on the end instead of S), only ask for Iridium plugs at the counter in any auto parts store.
- Synthetic oil-20W50 motor cycle wet clutch specific oil in summer (transmission will last a LOT longer as will the clutch with the 20W50 in hot weather, 10W40 in the fall/winter, 3000 mile changes using the Supertech st6607 Walmart filter, that through independent studies was equal and superior to OEM honda filter.
- Sea Foam, add this to a tank of gas (4 OZ) every 4th tank full until the bottle is empty, then add 4oz once every spring there after to keep your fuel system free of tarnish build up.
- Valve lash adjustment, this is according to the owners manual, supposed to be done every 8000 miles, but a LOT of owners get about 12-15,000 between them (they cost about $175 at Honda) I did a write up a while back on a step by step, DIY valve lash adjustment, but, unless you are a decent mechanic it would be in your bikes best interest to just pay the fee.
- Tires, Now this, like oil, is a HOT issue, where every one has their own idea on which tires are the best. I use Bridgestone Spitfires, which are a 16-18K mile tire, cost 1/3 less than the Dunlop d404 that come stock and only last 8K at BEST! (I also use Bridgestone Potenzas on my Chrysler rag top) and the Trucking CO that I spent the last 15 years driving for also use Bridgestones on the 18 wheelers!
- Gasoline, there is zero to be gained using a higher octane gas than the motor needs to avoid "pre-ignition" or knock. Octane does not have any bearing on the HP output of a gas engine. It is gasoline's anti-knock rating, the manual calls for 87/88 octane gas, that is all you need to use.
- anti-freeze, we are talking about ONE quart of fluid here, so cost should not even enter into the question. I use Honda's coolant which has been designed with the VLX engines needs in mind, has the proper lubrication additives for the water pump, and will give great service (good enough for Honda to trust not to expose themselves to any warranty issues) BUT, and this is a TIME thing, you should be changing the anti-freeze every 24 months, regardless of how many miles have been driven. If, for what ever reason you do not want to use Honda's anti freeze, as it IS YOUR bike, then make damn sure that whatever you do use is special antifreeze for Aluminum engines!!!
Ok that should be every thing, unless I have forgot something, following this list, and staying away from "red line" all the time, you will get 100,000 miles out of the VLX. Ride it like a race bike, and the life time of the motor will be as much less as you drive it HARD. Last thing I will say, is this The VLX we are talking about is Yours, so, you can throw all this out, and do what you want, your the captain of your ship. You said to me that you would welcome this list, so do with it what you will. I know that I have passed on good info, it is up to each owner to decide hat to do with this list.
--Montanaghost 17:37, 7 July 2010 (UTC)