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Difference between revisions of "Rear Chain and Sprockets"

Rear Chain and Sprockets (edit)

Revision as of 04:06, 13 December 2010

1 byte removed ,  04:06, 13 December 2010
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(Created page with "Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and ...")
 
 
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After the chain is off, remove the rear wheel. The rear sprocket is usually bolted to the rear hub. Sometimes it is bolted to a sprocket carrier, which slides into rubber cushions in the hub. Don't lose the nuts or bolts or lock washers. Often, they are of a special length or design. Now is a good time to look at any chain guides on the swing arm or chain slack adjuster rollers for wear and replace them if necessary.
After the chain is off, remove the rear wheel. The rear sprocket is usually bolted to the rear hub. Sometimes it is bolted to a sprocket carrier, which slides into rubber cushions in the hub. Don't lose the nuts or bolts or lock washers. Often, they are of a special length or design. Now is a good time to look at any chain guides on the swing arm or chain slack adjuster rollers for wear and replace them if necessary.


Bolt everything back together. If the sprocket is of a dished type, make sure it goes on the right way. Put it on backwards and things wear really quick. Please don't ask how I know this... trust me, it can be done and it does wear quickly ! Don't forget to bend over the locking tabs if there are any. Sometimes it helps to have a special tool to hold the chain ends together. 530 and 630 chain master links can be a very tight fit so it helps to have a chain press to press the side plate on with. You can also use a set of vice grips of the right size. If you are using a clip type master link make sure the closed end is pointed in the direction the chain travels. Rivet links need a chain riveter. At least that's the easiest way. You can also ping the rivet end over with a punch and hammer if you back up the master link with a big sledge hammer or piece of heavy metal.
Bolt everything back together. If the sprocket is of a dished type, make sure it goes on the right way. Put it on backwards and things wear really quick. Please don't ask how I know this... trust me, it can be done and it does wear quickly ! Don't forget to bend over the locking tabs if there are any. Sometimes it helps to have a special tool to hold the chain ends together. 530 and 630 chain master links can be a very tight fit so it helps to have a chain press to press the side plate on with. You can also use a set of vice grips of the right size. If you are using a clip type master link make sure the closed end is pointed in the direction the chain travels. Rivet links need a chain riveter. At least that's the easiest way. You can also ping the rivet end over with a punch and hammer if you back up the master link with a big sledge hammer or piece of heavy metal.


That's about it. Lube it up and you are done !
That's about it. Lube it up and you are done !
Addicted2speed
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