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Difference between revisions of "Used Motorcycle Evaluation"
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* Also look for heavy-duty aftermarket engine covers [5] -- made by [[NRC]], [[Factory]], [[Traksport]], [[Yoshimura]], etc. Many racing organizations require them, so they're a decent tip-off that the bike has been raced. They tend to be cheaper than the [[OEM]] case covers they replace, however, so sometimes they're used to replace crash-damaged case covers. By themselves, they aren't proof that a bike has been crashed or raced, but look around carefully for other tell-tale signs. | * Also look for heavy-duty aftermarket engine covers [5] -- made by [[NRC]], [[Factory]], [[Traksport]], [[Yoshimura]], etc. Many racing organizations require them, so they're a decent tip-off that the bike has been raced. They tend to be cheaper than the [[OEM]] case covers they replace, however, so sometimes they're used to replace crash-damaged case covers. By themselves, they aren't proof that a bike has been crashed or raced, but look around carefully for other tell-tale signs. | ||
* Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert. | * Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert. | ||
* Check the frame for cracks, usually along welds. Check around the steering head, around the engine mounts, and, if possible, welds in the front fairing bracket and rear [[subframe]]. ("If possible" because these brackets may well be covered by fairings on many models.) | * Check the frame for cracks, usually along welds. Check around the [[steering head]], around the engine mounts, and, if possible, welds in the front fairing bracket and rear [[subframe]]. ("If possible" because these brackets may well be covered by fairings on many models.) | ||
===Related photos=== | ===Related photos=== | ||
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* Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork seals have been changed (miles and/or years.) They should probably be changed every 15-20k miles. Replacing them is not necessarily a complicated fix, but it is if you don't have the right tools, and most people don't. (Approximately $100 of parts -- fork bushings usually get done at the same time -- and 2-3 hours of labor.) Straddle the bike, grab the front brake, and push down vigorously on the forks. They should go down and come back up with some resistance. Do this a few times. Inspect the chromed fork legs. [1] They should a) be smoother than a baby's bottom with absolutely no scratches, nicks, or roughness, and b) be utterly and totally devoid of little oil droplets. (Some nicks/scratches/gouges/surface rust can be polished off, but if they can't, new fork legs can be expensive. Have a professional mechanic advise you on what the prognosis is.) If, after bouncing the forks, you see little rings of dirt, that's probably fine, but wipe them off with a rag and bounce the front suspension a couple more times. Not good if you see oil left on the fork legs after you do this. | * Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork seals have been changed (miles and/or years.) They should probably be changed every 15-20k miles. Replacing them is not necessarily a complicated fix, but it is if you don't have the right tools, and most people don't. (Approximately $100 of parts -- fork bushings usually get done at the same time -- and 2-3 hours of labor.) Straddle the bike, grab the front brake, and push down vigorously on the forks. They should go down and come back up with some resistance. Do this a few times. Inspect the chromed fork legs. [1] They should a) be smoother than a baby's bottom with absolutely no scratches, nicks, or roughness, and b) be utterly and totally devoid of little oil droplets. (Some nicks/scratches/gouges/surface rust can be polished off, but if they can't, new fork legs can be expensive. Have a professional mechanic advise you on what the prognosis is.) If, after bouncing the forks, you see little rings of dirt, that's probably fine, but wipe them off with a rag and bounce the front suspension a couple more times. Not good if you see oil left on the fork legs after you do this. | ||
* Check the steering head bearings and swingarm bearings as mentioned in the section on centerstand checks, below. (If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, you might be able to use a jack or work stand to raise the bike off the ground, but be very careful not to damage a bike that you don't own.) | * Check the [[steering head]] bearings and swingarm bearings as mentioned in the section on centerstand checks, below. (If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, you might be able to use a jack or work stand to raise the bike off the ground, but be very careful not to damage a bike that you don't own.) | ||
* The suspension should move up and down almost silently if you bounce it up and down. Clunking or squeaking noises are bad. Binding is very bad. Run away. | * The suspension should move up and down almost silently if you bounce it up and down. Clunking or squeaking noises are bad. Binding is very bad. Run away. | ||
* Suspension fluid needs to be changed every year or two, as it tends to break down and thin-out over time. Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork oil has been changed. (The suspension oil in the rear shock of most bikes isn't generally user-serviceable, but should be changed periodically by a professional suspension shop nevertheless.) | * Suspension fluid needs to be changed every year or two, as it tends to break down and thin-out over time. Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork oil has been changed. (The suspension oil in the rear shock of most bikes isn't generally user-serviceable, but should be changed periodically by a professional suspension shop nevertheless.) | ||
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* If the bike has a [[centerstand]], you can test some other stuff. Put the bike up on the centerstand, have someone sit (or push down hard) on the passenger seat so the front wheel lifts in the air, then grab the sides of the front axle and try to move the front wheel forward and back (not twisting.) It shouldn't be able to move in this direction. The front wheel should rotate from full-lock left to full-lock right without binding (improper cable routing?) or feeling notchy (worn-out steering-head bearings ... see below.) | * If the bike has a [[centerstand]], you can test some other stuff. Put the bike up on the centerstand, have someone sit (or push down hard) on the passenger seat so the front wheel lifts in the air, then grab the sides of the front axle and try to move the front wheel forward and back (not twisting.) It shouldn't be able to move in this direction. The front wheel should rotate from full-lock left to full-lock right without binding (improper cable routing?) or feeling notchy (worn-out steering-head bearings ... see below.) | ||
* Bad steering head bearings will feel faintly notchy, typically when the handlebars are centered. Potholes and hard landings (from jumps or wheelies) can cause little dents in the steering-head bearing races. These little dents will make the bearing feel notchy as you (slowly) rotate the bars past the notched point. With the front wheel in the air, move the bars back and forth slowly, feeling for notches. (Make sure that cables and control wires aren't causing any irregularities that you may feel.) If the steering head bearings are notchy, they need to be replaced -- figure on $60-80 of parts and 2 hours of labor. | * Bad [[steering head]] bearings will feel faintly notchy, typically when the handlebars are centered. Potholes and hard landings (from jumps or wheelies) can cause little dents in the steering-head bearing races. These little dents will make the bearing feel notchy as you (slowly) rotate the bars past the notched point. With the front wheel in the air, move the bars back and forth slowly, feeling for notches. (Make sure that cables and control wires aren't causing any irregularities that you may feel.) If the [[steering head]] bearings are notchy, they need to be replaced -- figure on $60-80 of parts and 2 hours of labor. | ||
* Spin the front wheel and apply the brakes ever so gently. There shouldn't be a pulsating feeling from the pads. A pulsating feeling at the lever means new brake rotor(s); a pulsating sound (by itself) is probably nothing, but it could be an indication that the rotors are warped, and you should make an effort to test them at speed. Checking the rotors by spinning the wheel is pretty hard to test reliably, but do your best. Spin the wheel hard and apply the brakes gently so they slow down rather than just *stop*. As noted in the section on brakes, brake rotors are around $150-250 each.) | * Spin the front wheel and apply the brakes ever so gently. There shouldn't be a pulsating feeling from the pads. A pulsating feeling at the lever means new brake rotor(s); a pulsating sound (by itself) is probably nothing, but it could be an indication that the rotors are warped, and you should make an effort to test them at speed. Checking the rotors by spinning the wheel is pretty hard to test reliably, but do your best. Spin the wheel hard and apply the brakes gently so they slow down rather than just *stop*. As noted in the section on brakes, brake rotors are around $150-250 each.) | ||
* Next... put the front wheel back on the ground and grab the rear axle. Try to move the axle side to side. (You're checking for wear at the swingarm's pivot.) If things just feel loose back there, figure on $150 of parts (bearings, seals, etc.) and ~3-4 hours of labor. You shouldn't be able to move the swingarm side-to-side independent of the whole chassis. If you can, the swingarm bearings are badly worn. | * Next... put the front wheel back on the ground and grab the rear axle. Try to move the axle side to side. (You're checking for wear at the swingarm's pivot.) If things just feel loose back there, figure on $150 of parts (bearings, seals, etc.) and ~3-4 hours of labor. You shouldn't be able to move the swingarm side-to-side independent of the whole chassis. If you can, the swingarm bearings are badly worn. | ||
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* Look for cracks and dents on the frame, near the engine mounts. These can get cracked on bikes that have experienced a lot of hard landings. | * Look for cracks and dents on the frame, near the engine mounts. These can get cracked on bikes that have experienced a lot of hard landings. | ||
* Pay particular attention to bearings (wheel bearings, swingarm bearings, steering head bearings) -- dirt riding and frequent post-dirt pressure-washing are a bearing's worst nightmare. Check them for notchiness, looseness, etc. | * Pay particular attention to bearings (wheel bearings, swingarm bearings, [[steering head]] bearings) -- dirt riding and frequent post-dirt pressure-washing are a bearing's worst nightmare. Check them for notchiness, looseness, etc. | ||
* Many dirt bikes will have been raced in local motocross races, so while the standard caveat about bikes that have been raced still applies, you may have more trouble finding a bike that has led an easy life. | * Many dirt bikes will have been raced in local motocross races, so while the standard caveat about bikes that have been raced still applies, you may have more trouble finding a bike that has led an easy life. | ||
* Particularly with smaller dirt bikes, you should ask the seller who the main rider has been -- adults tend to be more gentle with bikes than kids. | * Particularly with smaller dirt bikes, you should ask the seller who the main rider has been -- adults tend to be more gentle with bikes than kids. | ||
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==Titles and Paperwork== | ==Titles and Paperwork== | ||
* Make sure that the VIN number on the bike matches the VIN on the title. To do this, you'll need to make sure that the seller has the title on hand when you go to see the bike. If (s)he doesn't, make sure you check this before you hand over the money. The VIN is usually marked near the steering head of the bike, one one of the frame spars, or on the steering head itself. If the VIN is damaged or appears to have been altered, the bike might be stolen -- write down the VIN, and see if the DMV or the police can verify that the bike has not been reported stolen and is registered to the same person trying to sell it. | * Make sure that the VIN number on the bike matches the VIN on the title. To do this, you'll need to make sure that the seller has the title on hand when you go to see the bike. If (s)he doesn't, make sure you check this before you hand over the money. The VIN is usually marked near the [[steering head]] of the bike, one one of the frame spars, or on the [[steering head]] itself. If the VIN is damaged or appears to have been altered, the bike might be stolen -- write down the VIN, and see if the DMV or the police can verify that the bike has not been reported stolen and is registered to the same person trying to sell it. | ||
* Make sure the bike has a good, clean title. Make sure that the owner signs the title over to you (on the back). Make sure that the owner is the seller ... check the name on the title. Make sure there are no liens on the bike, or if there were, that they've been released (look for release signatures on the front.) Do not buy a bike with un-released liens. Bikes with invalid odometer readings are worth significantly less than the blue book value -- look for a "999,999 miles - odometer discrepancy" (or something similar) on the title. Same goes for a "salvage" title (it'll be clearly marked as a "salvage" or "total loss" title.) For a tip-off that the bike has been painted (possibly to hide damage -- see HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?, above), check the bike's color as listed on the title vs what it looks like now. | * Make sure the bike has a good, clean title. Make sure that the owner signs the title over to you (on the back). Make sure that the owner is the seller ... check the name on the title. Make sure there are no liens on the bike, or if there were, that they've been released (look for release signatures on the front.) Do not buy a bike with un-released liens. Bikes with invalid odometer readings are worth significantly less than the blue book value -- look for a "999,999 miles - odometer discrepancy" (or something similar) on the title. Same goes for a "salvage" title (it'll be clearly marked as a "salvage" or "total loss" title.) For a tip-off that the bike has been painted (possibly to hide damage -- see HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?, above), check the bike's color as listed on the title vs what it looks like now. | ||
* Sometimes (not always?!) the DMV will want a "bill of sale" from the seller to you, indicating the price paid for the bike, the VIN, the date, the buyer's and seller's names, and the seller's signature. It's far easier to get this when you're exchanging money than to have to track the seller down later, so bring some blank paper and write something up. Make sure it says "bill of sale" and has the date and the seller's signature. | * Sometimes (not always?!) the DMV will want a "bill of sale" from the seller to you, indicating the price paid for the bike, the VIN, the date, the buyer's and seller's names, and the seller's signature. It's far easier to get this when you're exchanging money than to have to track the seller down later, so bring some blank paper and write something up. Make sure it says "bill of sale" and has the date and the seller's signature. | ||