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Difference between revisions of "Used Motorcycle Evaluation"
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* Ask the owner how many miles it's been since the clutch cable was changed (some bikes have hydraulic clutches, and obviously this doesn't apply). Owners who keep close tabs on bike maintenance will know. That's a good sign. Most owners probably don't know. If there's a little slack in the clutch cable, and you can move the lever 5/8" or an inch or so before the cable goes taut (something like this), that probably just means that the cable adjuster needs a turn or two. | * Ask the owner how many miles it's been since the clutch cable was changed (some bikes have hydraulic clutches, and obviously this doesn't apply). Owners who keep close tabs on bike maintenance will know. That's a good sign. Most owners probably don't know. If there's a little slack in the clutch cable, and you can move the lever 5/8" or an inch or so before the cable goes taut (something like this), that probably just means that the cable adjuster needs a turn or two. | ||
* A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack. | * A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack. | ||
* Put the bike in first gear, squeeze the clutch all the way in, roll it forward. It should feel like neutral, with possibly a little more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and feel for the friction zone. Clutch engagement should be fairly smooth, not abrupt. Put the bike back in neutral. | * Put the bike in first gear, squeeze the clutch all the way in, roll it forward. It should feel like neutral, with possibly a little more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and feel for the [[friction]] zone. Clutch engagement should be fairly smooth, not abrupt. Put the bike back in neutral. | ||
* If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.) | * If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.) | ||
*Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches. | *Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches. | ||
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** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work. | ** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work. | ||
*If the speedo/odo doesn't work, it's hard to know how many miles are on the bike, since you don't know how long it hasn't been counting off miles. Run away! | *If the speedo/odo doesn't work, it's hard to know how many miles are on the bike, since you don't know how long it hasn't been counting off miles. Run away! | ||
* Again, if you can get the wheels in the air (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), see if the wheels spin freely. Wheels that drag could be either blown wheel bearings or dragging brakes. Some brake drag is normal, so examine this on a number of bikes and you'll know when something is out of the ordinary. (In general, though, wheels spun fairly hard should spin for a couple of seconds before stopping. Rear wheels won't spin as long, since they'll be giving up some of their energy towards overcoming chain/belt/shaft friction.) | * Again, if you can get the wheels in the air (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), see if the wheels spin freely. Wheels that drag could be either blown wheel bearings or dragging brakes. Some brake drag is normal, so examine this on a number of bikes and you'll know when something is out of the ordinary. (In general, though, wheels spun fairly hard should spin for a couple of seconds before stopping. Rear wheels won't spin as long, since they'll be giving up some of their energy towards overcoming chain/belt/shaft [[friction]].) | ||
* If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this. | * If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this. | ||
* If the bike has spoked (rather than cast aluminum "mag") wheels, check to make sure that the spokes are all there and wiggle them to make sure they aren't loose. Loose spokes are a sign of neglect. | * If the bike has spoked (rather than cast aluminum "mag") wheels, check to make sure that the spokes are all there and wiggle them to make sure they aren't loose. Loose spokes are a sign of neglect. | ||