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Difference between revisions of "Used Motorcycle Evaluation"
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==Wheels== | ==Wheels== | ||
[[Image:Side-of-bike-showing-bent-front-wheel.jpg|right|thumb|Side of bike showing bent front wheel]] | |||
* Look carefully around the circumference of both sides of both wheels and look for dents. Around $100 (each) to get them straightened, plus labor to get them off the bike, the tires off, the tires back on, and them back on the bike. Ugh! It's usually easier to tell if the wheels are dented when they're spinning. So get them up in the air and spin them, if possible. Remember to check both sides. More on wheel damage at the end of this section. | |||
* Check the speedometer/odometer operation... there are two common designs of this system... if the bike has a cable that goes from the front axle (usually on the left side) up into the instrument cluster: | * Check the speedometer/odometer operation... there are two common designs of this system... if the bike has a cable that goes from the front axle (usually on the left side) up into the instrument cluster: | ||
** Get the front wheel off the ground (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), spin the front wheel as fast as you can and see if the speedometer registers anything. If the speedo needle doesn't rise, check to see if the trip odometer's 1/10th mile digit has moved after the wheel has spun for a while. If it hasn't, the speedo is probably disconnected or just doesn't work. | ** Get the front wheel off the ground (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), spin the front wheel as fast as you can and see if the speedometer registers anything. If the speedo needle doesn't rise, check to see if the trip odometer's 1/10th mile digit has moved after the wheel has spun for a while. If it hasn't, the speedo is probably disconnected or just doesn't work. | ||
*If your bike doesn't have one of these cables off the front axle, the bike's speedometer/odometer is probably keyed off the [[countershaft]] (transmission output)... | *If your bike doesn't have one of these cables off the front axle, the bike's speedometer/odometer is probably keyed off the [[countershaft]] (transmission output)... | ||
** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work. | ** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work. | ||
*If the speedo/odo doesn't work, it's hard to know how many miles are on the bike, since you don't know how long it hasn't been counting off miles. | *If the speedo/odo doesn't work, it's hard to know how many miles are on the bike, since you don't know how long it hasn't been counting off miles. You should probably avoid this bike. | ||
* Again, if you can get the wheels in the air (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), see if the wheels spin freely. Wheels that drag could be either blown wheel bearings or dragging brakes. Some brake drag is normal, so examine this on a number of bikes and you'll know when something is out of the ordinary. (In general, though, wheels spun fairly hard should spin for a couple of seconds before stopping. Rear wheels won't spin as long, since they'll be giving up some of their energy towards overcoming chain/belt/shaft [[friction]].) | * Again, if you can get the wheels in the air (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), see if the wheels spin freely. Wheels that drag could be either blown wheel bearings or dragging brakes. Some brake drag is normal, so examine this on a number of bikes and you'll know when something is out of the ordinary. (In general, though, wheels spun fairly hard should spin for a couple of seconds before stopping. Rear wheels won't spin as long, since they'll be giving up some of their energy towards overcoming chain/belt/shaft [[friction]].) | ||
* If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this. | * If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this. | ||
* If the bike has spoked (rather than cast aluminum "mag") wheels, check to make sure that the spokes are all there and wiggle them to make sure they aren't loose. Loose spokes are a sign of neglect. | |||
* If the bike has spoked (rather than cast aluminum "mag") wheels, check to make sure that the spokes are all there and wiggle them to make sure they aren't loose. Loose spokes are a sign of neglect. Spokes should not be bent, missing or twisted. | |||
** If you can get the wheels into the air, spin them, and hold something rigid against the spokes as they turn -- the handle of a screwdriver works well for this. (Careful not to scratch the spokes -- you don't own the bike yet!) The pinging sounds that the spokes make as they strike this object should sound roughly the same, since, ideally, they're all under the same tension. A change in pitch indicates spokes of different tightness. Easily fixed, but a sign that regular maintenance hasn't been performed. | ** If you can get the wheels into the air, spin them, and hold something rigid against the spokes as they turn -- the handle of a screwdriver works well for this. (Careful not to scratch the spokes -- you don't own the bike yet!) The pinging sounds that the spokes make as they strike this object should sound roughly the same, since, ideally, they're all under the same tension. A change in pitch indicates spokes of different tightness. Easily fixed, but a sign that regular maintenance hasn't been performed. | ||
* Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels require excruciatingly careful inspection. (And their presence may be a good indication that the bike has been raced.) These types of wheels are extremely lightweight, but they tend to crack rather than bend, and cracks can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure. If you're buying a bike with magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels, spend some extra time examining the wheels to make sure there are no cracks. (Unless the seller tells you that the wheels are magnesium, it'll be hard to tell, since magnesium and aluminum wheels both look the same when they're covered with paint.) Wheels made by "Technomagnesio" or "Marchesini" are likely to be magnesium. Carbon-fiber rims are usually unpainted, as the first law of aftermarket motorcycle parts is, "Thou shalt show off thy pretty carbon fibers whenever possible." | * Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels require excruciatingly careful inspection. (And their presence may be a good indication that the bike has been raced.) These types of wheels are extremely lightweight, but they tend to crack rather than bend, and cracks can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure. If you're buying a bike with magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels, spend some extra time examining the wheels to make sure there are no cracks. (Unless the seller tells you that the wheels are magnesium, it'll be hard to tell, since magnesium and aluminum wheels both look the same when they're covered with paint.) Wheels made by "Technomagnesio" or "Marchesini" are likely to be magnesium. Carbon-fiber rims are usually unpainted, as the first law of aftermarket motorcycle parts is, "Thou shalt show off thy pretty carbon fibers whenever possible." | ||
* [[Tires]] should be visually inspected for wear, abrasion and/or damage. Look at the entire tire. Sidewalls should not have cracks from aging or dryrot. (Make sure the tires are fully inflated or these cracks may not be visible.) You can use a Lincoln head penny test that tread depth is not less than 3/32nd's for a front tire, and 2/32nd's for the rear. Insert the penny into the main tread groove, Lincoln's head first. If the tire tread is not deep enough to cover the top of Abe's head, the tires need replacing. | |||
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==Chain/Sprockets/Belts== | ==Chain/Sprockets/Belts== | ||