Difference between revisions of "Used Motorcycle Evaluation"

* Resist the temptation to buy the first bike you see. Look at a few of them to get a better idea of the used bike market/options before you buy one.

* Resist the temptation to buy the first bike you see. Look at a few of them to get a better idea of the used bike market/options before you buy one.

* Bring a friend to help you stick to your guns, or to help you load your new bikes onto a truck, or as ballast in case the bike has a [[centerstand]] and you wish to inspect the front wheel. Bike-savvy friends may also notice things that you forgot to check. Make sure they also read this guide ahead of time.

* Bring a friend to help you stick to your guns, or to help you load your new bikes onto a truck, or as ballast in case the bike has a [[centerstand]] and you wish to inspect the front wheel. Bike-savvy friends may also notice things that you forgot to check. Make sure they also read this guide ahead of time.

* Bring a flashlight to aid inspection. Even in daylight.

* Bring a flashlight to aid inspection. Even in daylight.

* Request that the owner not have the bike warmed up when you get there, but tell him/her to make sure that the bike will start. If the owner asks why, tell them that you want to test the bike's ability to start when cold. (It's a lot easier for engines to start when pre-warmed.)

* Request that the owner not have the bike warmed up when you get there, but tell him/her to make sure that the bike will start. If the owner asks why, tell them that you want to test the bike's ability to start when cold. (It's a lot easier for engines to start when pre-warmed.)

* Bring riding gear in case the seller will let you test ride the bike. (If you're new to motorcycling and don't have any gear yet, perhaps the bike-savvy friend accompanying you will be kind enough to bring his/her gear, and do a test ride for you.)

* Bring riding gear in case the seller will let you test ride the bike. (If you're new to motorcycling and don't have any gear yet, perhaps the bike-savvy friend accompanying you will be kind enough to bring his/her gear, and do a test ride for you.)

* You'll have to go through and carefully inspect used bikes being sold by dealerships, too, since many dealerships take used bikes as trade-ins, make minimal (if any) repairs, and mark the bikes up way over "blue book" value. It's up to you to find defects (and to know what the used bike's real value is!!) to get these vultures back down to a reasonable price. Think of it as a treasure hunt -- you're looking for the hidden secrets that will save you money.

* You'll have to go through and carefully inspect used bikes being sold by dealerships, too, since many dealerships take used bikes as trade-ins, make minimal (if any) repairs, and mark the bikes up way over "blue book" value. It's up to you to find defects (and to know what the used bike's real value is!!) to get these vultures back down to a reasonable price. Think of it as a treasure hunt -- you're looking for the hidden secrets that will save you money.

* In the text below, "left" and "right" refer to the rider's left and right sides when sitting on the bike.

* In the text below, "left" and "right" refer to the rider's left and right sides when sitting on the bike.

* If you aren't really experienced with bikes, do some practice inspections! Find a couple of friends with bikes, and, pretending that you're at a seller's house inspecting a used bike, go over a couple of bikes in minute detail. You'll learn a lot about how bikes are put together, and you might even find some things that your friends missed. Take notes while you're doing the inspections, and go over your findings with your friends after each inspection.

* If you aren't really experienced with bikes, do some practice inspections! Find a couple of friends with bikes, and, pretending that you're at a seller's house inspecting a used bike, go over a couple of bikes in minute detail. You'll learn a lot about how bikes are put together, and you might even find some things that your friends missed. Take notes while you're doing the inspections, and go over your findings with your friends after each inspection.

* When you end up buying a bike, make sure you get everything related to the bike: the key and any spares that the seller has, any free/included spare parts, the owner's manual and service manual, etc. Having to go back to the seller to get stuff you should have remembered the first time is a pain. And you may find the seller far less accommodating after you've paid for the thing.

* When you end up buying a bike, make sure you get everything related to the bike: the key and any spares that the seller has, any free/included spare parts, the owner's manual and service manual, etc. Having to go back to the seller to get stuff you should have remembered the first time is a pain. And you may find the seller far less accommodating after you've paid for the thing.

==Overall Appearance==

==Overall Appearance==

* Basically, try to answer the question: "How does the overall cosmetic appearance of this bike affect how much I want to pay for it?"

* Basically, try to answer the question: "How does the overall cosmetic appearance of this bike affect how much I want to pay for it?"

==Has it been crashed?==

==Has it been crashed?==

* Sometimes a crash will twist the front forks. Sit on the bike, sight down the forks, and see if they're at all twisted or bent. (Twisted is pretty cheap and easy to fix, bent is not, but either ought to be a warning sign to check extra-carefully for other damage.) If you get a chance to test ride the bike, get the bike going straight, and take a quick look down at the bars to make sure they're pointed straight -- if they aren't, the front has probably been twisted in a crash.

* Sometimes a crash will twist the front forks. Sit on the bike, sight down the forks, and see if they're at all twisted or bent. (Twisted is pretty cheap and easy to fix, bent is not, but either ought to be a warning sign to check extra-carefully for other damage.) If you get a chance to test ride the bike, get the bike going straight, and take a quick look down at the bars to make sure they're pointed straight -- if they aren't, the front has probably been twisted in a crash.

* Non-parallel scratches and shallow chips tend to indicate a tip-over rather than a crash at speed. (Crashes, of course, tend to do more damage -- tip-overs rarely do more than minor cosmetic damage.)

* Non-parallel scratches and shallow chips tend to indicate a tip-over rather than a crash at speed. (Crashes, of course, tend to do more damage -- tip-overs rarely do more than minor cosmetic damage.)

* You may come across a bike that has horizontal scratches on its lower plastic and metal parts... this isn't necessarily a crashed bike, it could just be that the owner was an enthusiastic rider that leaned the bike way over when turning. Ask the owner about the origin of the scratches, but unless you see evidence of a crash, it's probably just evidence of an enthusiastic owner. Deep/parallel scratches above footpeg-level are something to be concerned about, though.

* You may come across a bike that has horizontal scratches on its lower plastic and metal parts... this isn't necessarily a crashed bike, it could just be that the owner was an enthusiastic rider that leaned the bike way over when turning. Ask the owner about the origin of the scratches, but unless you see evidence of a crash, it's probably just evidence of an enthusiastic owner. Deep/parallel scratches above footpeg-level are something to be concerned about, though.

* Crashes can cause bodywork problems for two reasons. Besides scratching and cracking the bodywork, crashes can bend the bodywork's mounting brackets and break mounting tabs [4]. Check to make sure that bodywork pieces that fit together do so easily and have an even seam where pieces come together. And check to make sure that the bodywork isn't loose, either because mounting tabs were broken off or because aftermarket fairings might not mount up as well as the stock stuff.

* Crashes can cause bodywork problems for two reasons. Besides scratching and cracking the bodywork, crashes can bend the bodywork's mounting brackets and break mounting tabs [4]. Check to make sure that bodywork pieces that fit together do so easily and have an even seam where pieces come together. And check to make sure that the bodywork isn't loose, either because mounting tabs were broken off or because aftermarket fairings might not mount up as well as the stock stuff.

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* Racing puts tremendous stress on machinery. You may or may not want to buy a bike that's been raced (the price ought to be way lower than it would be otherwise), but you should definitely try to find out if it has or hasn't been raced, so you can adjust the price accordingly if need be.

* Racing puts tremendous stress on machinery. You may or may not want to buy a bike that's been raced (the price ought to be way lower than it would be otherwise), but you should definitely try to find out if it has or hasn't been raced, so you can adjust the price accordingly if need be.

* Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert.

* Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert.

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==Brakes==

==Brakes==

* Rear brake... roll the bike forward, use the rear brake to stop the bike. It should also engage smoothly. If the rear brake is a drum brake (no exposed brake rotor), is the wear indicator needle inside or outside the "usable range" indicator when the brakes are applied? Outside, of course, means the brakes are worn out.

* Rear brake... roll the bike forward, use the rear brake to stop the bike. It should also engage smoothly. If the rear brake is a drum brake (no exposed brake rotor), is the wear indicator needle inside or outside the "usable range" indicator when the brakes are applied? Outside, of course, means the brakes are worn out.

* Some states have a mandatory safety inspection. If yours does, they'll probably require that both front and back brake levers (separately and together) illuminate the brake light. If one does and the other doesn't, you probably need a new switch (around $25?) or a switch adjustment. If both don't, you probably just need a new bulb (around $1.)

* Some states have a mandatory safety inspection. If yours does, they'll probably require that both front and back brake levers (separately and together) illuminate the brake light. If one does and the other doesn't, you probably need a new switch (around $25?) or a switch adjustment. If both don't, you probably just need a new bulb (around $1.)

* Disc brakes continued: rotors should be a certain minimum thickness and shouldn't vary more than a certain amount when spun. This kind of information will be in the service manual. As a general rule of thumb, rotors should be a minimum of 4mm, and warpage should be less than .012". (FWIW, even warpage of .020" probably won't show up in the form of lever-pulsing at speeds below 45 mph.) If you don't have the right tools to test this, you'll probably need to rely on a test ride to spot a warped rotor -- unless it's so bad that you can see it with the naked eye. Even if you don't have the right tools, you can inspect the rotors for cracks, deep wear grooves and other damage.

* Disc brakes continued: rotors should be a certain minimum thickness and shouldn't vary more than a certain amount when spun. This kind of information will be in the service manual. As a general rule of thumb, rotors should be a minimum of 4mm, and warpage should be less than .012". (FWIW, even warpage of .020" probably won't show up in the form of lever-pulsing at speeds below 45 mph.) If you don't have the right tools to test this, you'll probably need to rely on a test ride to spot a warped rotor -- unless it's so bad that you can see it with the naked eye. Even if you don't have the right tools, you can inspect the rotors for cracks, deep wear grooves and other damage.

* [[Brake fluid]] should be a very light amber. Darker than honey means it's time to replace the brake fluid. Not expensive, but possibly an indication that the owner hasn't followed the maintenance schedule. (Or maybe the bike has just sat for a long time.) The front brake fluid color and level should be easy to inspect through a sight glass in the front master cylinder or via marks on the translucent brake fluid reservoir. (Fluid level should be roughly in the middle of the sight glass or reservoir min/max range when the bike is on level ground and the steering is centered.) For bikes with disc brakes on the rear wheel, check the rear brake fluid as well -- sometimes visible under the seat/tailsection, sometimes visible through a hole cut in the tailsection or side fairings.

* [[Brake fluid]] should be a very light amber. Darker than honey means it's time to replace the brake fluid. Not expensive, but possibly an indication that the owner hasn't followed the maintenance schedule. (Or maybe the bike has just sat for a long time.) The front brake fluid color and level should be easy to inspect through a sight glass in the front master cylinder or via marks on the translucent brake fluid reservoir. (Fluid level should be roughly in the middle of the sight glass or reservoir min/max range when the bike is on level ground and the steering is centered.) For bikes with disc brakes on the rear wheel, check the rear brake fluid as well -- sometimes visible under the seat/tailsection, sometimes visible through a hole cut in the tailsection or side fairings.

* Inspect the brake hoses for nicks, cuts, dry-rot, and leaks.

* Inspect the brake hoses for nicks, cuts, dry-rot, and leaks.

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==Clutch==

==Clutch==

* A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack.

* A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack.

* If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.)

* If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.)

*Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches.

*Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches.

*Wet clutches may tend to stick or drag a bit until the bike has warmed up and the clutch has spun a bit. This is often the case when the clutch hasn't been used in a while. Wait until the bike has really warmed up before you dismiss a potential acquisition for having an overly-sticky clutch.

*Wet clutches may tend to stick or drag a bit until the bike has warmed up and the clutch has spun a bit. This is often the case when the clutch hasn't been used in a while. Wait until the bike has really warmed up before you dismiss a potential acquisition for having an overly-sticky clutch.

* Look for: dents as noted above [1]. Open it up, look for rust and/or loose sediment. Rust/sediment is bad -- it clogs [[carburetors]]. Bikes with rusty tanks need to have the rust removed... drop the price $150 or so. You should open the tank up and see light-amber colored gas and bare metal. If you see a milky paint-like coating on the insides of the tank, the bike has had rust removed and the insides of the tank re-coated. Make sure it runs -- sometimes this re-coating can clog the fuel's path out of the tank. Many people swear by it, but I'd pay a little less for a bike with a tank that's been re-coated.

* Look for: dents as noted above [1]. Open it up, look for rust and/or loose sediment. Rust/sediment is bad -- it clogs [[carburetors]]. Bikes with rusty tanks need to have the rust removed... drop the price $150 or so. You should open the tank up and see light-amber colored gas and bare metal. If you see a milky paint-like coating on the insides of the tank, the bike has had rust removed and the insides of the tank re-coated. Make sure it runs -- sometimes this re-coating can clog the fuel's path out of the tank. Many people swear by it, but I'd pay a little less for a bike with a tank that's been re-coated.

** Exceptions: Some late-model bikes (e.g., recent [[Triumph]]s) have plastic gas tanks. It's normal for plastic gas tanks to be milky-white on the inside. Knock on the side of the tank to see if it's metal or plastic. Exceptions to exceptions: some bikes have metal tanks but have plastic tank covers, so when you knock on them, they'll sound like plastic, but they aren't. (Example: [[Yamaha FZR400]]'s.) Your best bet is to look closely at the inside of the tank -- it should be fairly easy to tell whether or not you're looking at metal or plastic. Evaluate the tank's condition accordingly.  

** Exceptions: Some late-model bikes (e.g., recent [[Triumph]]s) have plastic gas tanks. It's normal for plastic gas tanks to be milky-white on the inside. Knock on the side of the tank to see if it's metal or plastic. Exceptions to exceptions: some bikes have metal tanks but have plastic tank covers, so when you knock on them, they'll sound like plastic, but they aren't. (Example: [[Yamaha FZR400]]'s.) Your best bet is to look closely at the inside of the tank -- it should be fairly easy to tell whether or not you're looking at metal or plastic. Evaluate the tank's condition accordingly.  

* Make sure the lock in the gas cap is working. If it isn't, it'll probably cost $100-$200 to get a genuine [[OEM]] replacement cap with a lock that matches the ignition's.

* Make sure the lock in the gas cap is working. If it isn't, it'll probably cost $100-$200 to get a genuine [[OEM]] replacement cap with a lock that matches the ignition's.

* How do you know how old the tires are? All tires have an industry-standard dating code stamped on them. Look for digits stamped into the mold on the rubber sidewall of the tire. The date code for tires made prior to 2000 is: "WWY", where WW is two digits denoting the week of the year, and Y is the last digit of the year. A tire produced on May 30th (the 22nd week) of 1996 would be stamped 226. (A tire produced on May 30th of 1986 would also have a code of 226, but will probably have a ton of dry rot.)

* How do you know how old the tires are? All tires have an industry-standard dating code stamped on them. Look for digits stamped into the mold on the rubber sidewall of the tire. The date code for tires made prior to 2000 is: "WWY", where WW is two digits denoting the week of the year, and Y is the last digit of the year. A tire produced on May 30th (the 22nd week) of 1996 would be stamped 226. (A tire produced on May 30th of 1986 would also have a code of 226, but will probably have a ton of dry rot.)

* As of 2000, the date coding system has changed a bit. All tires are still required to be stamped with a DOT number on at least one sidewall, but now there's more data. Look for a code that starts with "DOT" and has up to 12 letters and numbers. The last four numbers are the date code in the format: "WWYY", where the WW two digits denote the week of manufacture, and the YY denotes the last two digits of the year. So a date code of "DOT913ACX3C2200" would have been manufactured in the 22nd week of '00. If the three/four digit stamp you found doesn't make sense with this scheme, you're not looking at the date code stamp. Keep in mind that both tires will have this date marking (possibly/probably different), and that tires should be replaced at least every third year, or whenever they have damage that threatens their integrity. (Punctures, cuts on the sidewall, excessive wear, dry rot, etc.) Frequent tire inspection could very well save your life.

* As of 2000, the date coding system has changed a bit. All tires are still required to be stamped with a DOT number on at least one sidewall, but now there's more data. Look for a code that starts with "DOT" and has up to 12 letters and numbers. The last four numbers are the date code in the format: "WWYY", where the WW two digits denote the week of manufacture, and the YY denotes the last two digits of the year. So a date code of "DOT913ACX3C2200" would have been manufactured in the 22nd week of '00. If the three/four digit stamp you found doesn't make sense with this scheme, you're not looking at the date code stamp. Keep in mind that both tires will have this date marking (possibly/probably different), and that tires should be replaced at least every third year, or whenever they have damage that threatens their integrity. (Punctures, cuts on the sidewall, excessive wear, dry rot, etc.) Frequent tire inspection could very well save your life.

* For information on a method of changing motorcycle tires at home, using a stand made with only $50 or so of parts, see:

* For information on a method of changing motorcycle tires at home, using a stand made with only $50 or so of parts, see:

** http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html

** http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html

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* Check to make sure the headlights (high/low) work. (On some bikes, the headlight won't come on until the engine does, so you may need to start the engine to test this.) Make sure the turn signals work, make very sure that the oil pressure light comes on when you turn on the ignition, and goes out when the engine starts! Make sure the neutral indicator light works. Make sure the starter works. Make sure the brake levers light up the brake light. Make sure the horn works.

* Check to make sure the headlights (high/low) work. (On some bikes, the headlight won't come on until the engine does, so you may need to start the engine to test this.) Make sure the turn signals work, make very sure that the oil pressure light comes on when you turn on the ignition, and goes out when the engine starts! Make sure the neutral indicator light works. Make sure the starter works. Make sure the brake levers light up the brake light. Make sure the horn works.

* Basically, check all the switches as well as the signalling and instrument-cluster lights. (Bulbs are pretty cheap to replace.)

* Basically, check all the switches as well as the signalling and instrument-cluster lights. (Bulbs are pretty cheap to replace.)

* If the bike has one*, you should also test to make sure that the sidestand's engine cut-off is working. These are designed to prevent you from riding off with the sidestand down, taking a left turn, and getting flipped onto the ground. They work in different ways -- some prevent the engine from starting when the sidestand is down, some only prevent the engine from running when the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear (i.e., not neutral.) (Still others will let you put the bike in gear while the sidestand is down, simply killing the ignition as soon as you release the clutch, but these are kind of rare.) The design where ignition is killed when the bike is put into gear is a bit more dangerous to test than the design where it won't let the engine start with the sidestand down. You may want to start by putting the bike in neutral and trying to start the engine (once you know that it actually will start!) with the sidestand down. If it does start, we need to test to see if the safety has been removed or if it's just the other design... grab the clutch all the way in, hold the front brakes on hard, make sure the sidestand is down, and click the bike into first gear. If the engine dies, the sidestand cut-off switch works. If it continues running, the sidestand cut-off switch has been removed from the circuit. This might mean the bike has been raced, but it's more of a clue to check elsewhere for evidence of racing, since by itself it doesn't really mean anything. If the sidestand cut-off switch does not work as designed, you must be very careful (if you buy or test-ride the bike) not to ride off with the sidestand down!  Now that we're done with this test, put the bike back into neutral, release the clutch, and kill the engine.

* If the bike has one*, you should also test to make sure that the sidestand's engine cut-off is working. These are designed to prevent you from riding off with the sidestand down, taking a left turn, and getting flipped onto the ground. They work in different ways -- some prevent the engine from starting when the sidestand is down, some only prevent the engine from running when the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear (i.e., not neutral.) (Still others will let you put the bike in gear while the sidestand is down, simply killing the ignition as soon as you release the clutch, but these are kind of rare.) The design where ignition is killed when the bike is put into gear is a bit more dangerous to test than the design where it won't let the engine start with the sidestand down. You may want to start by putting the bike in neutral and trying to start the engine (once you know that it actually will start!) with the sidestand down. If it does start, we need to test to see if the safety has been removed or if it's just the other design... grab the clutch all the way in, hold the front brakes on hard, make sure the sidestand is down, and click the bike into first gear. If the engine dies, the sidestand cut-off switch works. If it continues running, the sidestand cut-off switch has been removed from the circuit. This might mean the bike has been raced, but it's more of a clue to check elsewhere for evidence of racing, since by itself it doesn't really mean anything. If the sidestand cut-off switch does not work as designed, you must be very careful (if you buy or test-ride the bike) not to ride off with the sidestand down!  Now that we're done with this test, put the bike back into neutral, release the clutch, and kill the engine.

* *=Some bikes won't have such a cutoff. This includes certain Ducati models and a wide variety of older bikes. As noted above, if you buy a bike without a (working) sidestand cutoff, you'll need to be very careful to avoid riding off with the sidestand down.

* *=Some bikes won't have such a cutoff. This includes certain Ducati models and a wide variety of older bikes. As noted above, if you buy a bike without a (working) sidestand cutoff, you'll need to be very careful to avoid riding off with the sidestand down.

* Make sure the kill switch on the right handgrip stops the engine when it's running. (Dirt bikes will have a kill button on the left side of the handlebar.)

* Make sure the kill switch on the right handgrip stops the engine when it's running. (Dirt bikes will have a kill button on the left side of the handlebar.)

* Batteries are very hard to test without the appropriate tools, and even then they're kind of mysterious and unpredictable. For our purposes, if the battery starts the bike, it's good. If it doesn't, $50 to replace. Without hearing "good" batteries, it's hard to tell what "good" sounds like, but if the starter's cranking is obviously weak, that's probably a good indication that the battery is too. As noted below (in [[#ENGINE/FLUIDS/CARBURATORS]]), warm bikes start much easier, so take that into account when making a subjective evaluation of the cranking sound.

* Batteries are very hard to test without the appropriate tools, and even then they're kind of mysterious and unpredictable. For our purposes, if the battery starts the bike, it's good. If it doesn't, $50 to replace. Without hearing "good" batteries, it's hard to tell what "good" sounds like, but if the starter's cranking is obviously weak, that's probably a good indication that the battery is too. As noted below (in [[#ENGINE/FLUIDS/CARBURATORS]]), warm bikes start much easier, so take that into account when making a subjective evaluation of the cranking sound.

* If the headlight gets brighter as the engine revs, the battery could be discharged (or dead), though it's probably more likely that the voltage regulator is toast. $80-120 for a new one, plus half an hour of labor to install. Don't compare brightness at idle to brightness at 10,000 rpm... compare ~2,500 rpm to ~7,000 rpm.) It's hard to diagnose this problem by headlight brightness alone, but for starters, try charging the battery and repeating the test, or, if that doesn't work, replacing the battery and repeating the test. If it's still getting brighter as revs go up, try testing voltage across the battery at ~3,000 rpm... should be 13.8v or so. Less than 13.2 (or more than 14.4) and you probably have a bad stator (~$300 for a new one, ~$150 to get the old one rewound) or a bad regulator (prices as noted above.) This probably sounds pretty involved, and it probably is, if you don't know what you're doing. You may want to look for a bike that won't require as much work... taking the bike to a mechanic for a professional diagnosis will cost you $50-$100 or so, but will help you make that decision. If you have your heart set on this bike, it's probably worth it; otherwise, it probably isn't.

* If the headlight gets brighter as the engine revs, the battery could be discharged (or dead), though it's probably more likely that the voltage regulator is toast. $80-120 for a new one, plus half an hour of labor to install. Don't compare brightness at idle to brightness at 10,000 rpm... compare ~2,500 rpm to ~7,000 rpm.) It's hard to diagnose this problem by headlight brightness alone, but for starters, try charging the battery and repeating the test, or, if that doesn't work, replacing the battery and repeating the test. If it's still getting brighter as revs go up, try testing voltage across the battery at ~3,000 rpm... should be 13.8v or so. Less than 13.2 (or more than 14.4) and you probably have a bad stator (~$300 for a new one, ~$150 to get the old one rewound) or a bad regulator (prices as noted above.) This probably sounds pretty involved, and it probably is, if you don't know what you're doing. You may want to look for a bike that won't require as much work... taking the bike to a mechanic for a professional diagnosis will cost you $50-$100 or so, but will help you make that decision. If you have your heart set on this bike, it's probably worth it; otherwise, it probably isn't.

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* Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork seals have been changed (miles and/or years.) They should probably be changed every 15-20k miles. Replacing them is not necessarily a complicated fix, but it is if you don't have the right tools, and most people don't. (Approximately $100 of parts -- fork bushings usually get done at the same time -- and 2-3 hours of labor.) Straddle the bike, grab the front brake, and push down vigorously on the forks. They should go down and come back up with some resistance. Do this a few times. Inspect the chromed fork legs. [1] They should a) be smoother than a baby's bottom with absolutely no scratches, nicks, or roughness, and b) be utterly and totally devoid of little oil droplets. (Some nicks/scratches/gouges/surface rust can be polished off, but if they can't, new fork legs can be expensive. Have a professional mechanic advise you on what the prognosis is.) If, after bouncing the forks, you see little rings of dirt, that's probably fine, but wipe them off with a rag and bounce the front suspension a couple more times. Not good if you see oil left on the fork legs after you do this.

* Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork seals have been changed (miles and/or years.) They should probably be changed every 15-20k miles. Replacing them is not necessarily a complicated fix, but it is if you don't have the right tools, and most people don't. (Approximately $100 of parts -- fork bushings usually get done at the same time -- and 2-3 hours of labor.) Straddle the bike, grab the front brake, and push down vigorously on the forks. They should go down and come back up with some resistance. Do this a few times. Inspect the chromed fork legs. [1] They should a) be smoother than a baby's bottom with absolutely no scratches, nicks, or roughness, and b) be utterly and totally devoid of little oil droplets. (Some nicks/scratches/gouges/surface rust can be polished off, but if they can't, new fork legs can be expensive. Have a professional mechanic advise you on what the prognosis is.) If, after bouncing the forks, you see little rings of dirt, that's probably fine, but wipe them off with a rag and bounce the front suspension a couple more times. Not good if you see oil left on the fork legs after you do this.

* The suspension should move up and down almost silently if you bounce it up and down. Clunking or squeaking noises are bad. Binding is very bad. Run away.

* The suspension should move up and down almost silently if you bounce it up and down. Clunking or squeaking noises are bad. Binding is very bad. Run away.

* Suspension fluid needs to be changed every year or two, as it tends to break down and thin-out over time. Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork oil has been changed. (The suspension oil in the rear shock of most bikes isn't generally user-serviceable, but should be changed periodically by a professional suspension shop nevertheless.)

* Suspension fluid needs to be changed every year or two, as it tends to break down and thin-out over time. Ask the owner how long it's been since the fork oil has been changed. (The suspension oil in the rear shock of most bikes isn't generally user-serviceable, but should be changed periodically by a professional suspension shop nevertheless.)

===Related photos===

===Related photos===

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==Wheels==

==Wheels==

* Check the speedometer/odometer operation... there are two common designs of this system... if the bike has a cable that goes from the front axle (usually on the left side) up into the instrument cluster:

* Check the speedometer/odometer operation... there are two common designs of this system... if the bike has a cable that goes from the front axle (usually on the left side) up into the instrument cluster:

** Get the front wheel off the ground (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), spin the front wheel as fast as you can and see if the speedometer registers anything. If the speedo needle doesn't rise, check to see if the trip odometer's 1/10th mile digit has moved after the wheel has spun for a while. If it hasn't, the speedo is probably disconnected or just doesn't work.  

** Get the front wheel off the ground (see [[#CENTERSTAND CHECKS]], below), spin the front wheel as fast as you can and see if the speedometer registers anything. If the speedo needle doesn't rise, check to see if the trip odometer's 1/10th mile digit has moved after the wheel has spun for a while. If it hasn't, the speedo is probably disconnected or just doesn't work.  

*If your bike doesn't have one of these cables off the front axle, the bike's speedometer/odometer is probably keyed off the [[countershaft]] (transmission output)...

*If your bike doesn't have one of these cables off the front axle, the bike's speedometer/odometer is probably keyed off the [[countershaft]] (transmission output)...

** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work.  

** Get the rear wheel in the air, start the engine, get the bike into second gear, and let it idle... the speedo needle should rise a bit, and the odometer digits should scroll slowly. If it doesn't, the speedo/odo is disconnected or just doesn't work.  

* If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this.

* If the bike doesn't have a centerstand, and you're feeling physically up to it, put the bike's sidestand down and pull sideways on the handlebars or the rear sub-frame to get the bike to pivot on the sidestand and lever a wheel up into the air. This is a little dangerous -- it's very easy to drop the bike! -- but not too hard if you've had some practice. It's the only good way to get wheels in the air without a swingarm/front-end stand or a centerstand. It is highly recommended that you have a friend on-hand to help with this.

** If you can get the wheels into the air, spin them, and hold something rigid against the spokes as they turn -- the handle of a screwdriver works well for this. (Careful not to scratch the spokes -- you don't own the bike yet!) The pinging sounds that the spokes make as they strike this object should sound roughly the same, since, ideally, they're all under the same tension. A change in pitch indicates spokes of different tightness. Easily fixed, but a sign that regular maintenance hasn't been performed.  

** If you can get the wheels into the air, spin them, and hold something rigid against the spokes as they turn -- the handle of a screwdriver works well for this. (Careful not to scratch the spokes -- you don't own the bike yet!) The pinging sounds that the spokes make as they strike this object should sound roughly the same, since, ideally, they're all under the same tension. A change in pitch indicates spokes of different tightness. Easily fixed, but a sign that regular maintenance hasn't been performed.  

* Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels require excruciatingly careful inspection. (And their presence may be a good indication that the bike has been raced.) These types of wheels are extremely lightweight, but they tend to crack rather than bend, and cracks can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure. If you're buying a bike with magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels, spend some extra time examining the wheels to make sure there are no cracks. (Unless the seller tells you that the wheels are magnesium, it'll be hard to tell, since magnesium and aluminum wheels both look the same when they're covered with paint.) Wheels made by "Technomagnesio" or "Marchesini" are likely to be magnesium. Carbon-fiber rims are usually unpainted, as the first law of aftermarket motorcycle parts is, "Thou shalt show off thy pretty carbon fibers whenever possible."

* Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels require excruciatingly careful inspection. (And their presence may be a good indication that the bike has been raced.) These types of wheels are extremely lightweight, but they tend to crack rather than bend, and cracks can lead to sudden and catastrophic failure. If you're buying a bike with magnesium or carbon-fiber wheels, spend some extra time examining the wheels to make sure there are no cracks. (Unless the seller tells you that the wheels are magnesium, it'll be hard to tell, since magnesium and aluminum wheels both look the same when they're covered with paint.) Wheels made by "Technomagnesio" or "Marchesini" are likely to be magnesium. Carbon-fiber rims are usually unpainted, as the first law of aftermarket motorcycle parts is, "Thou shalt show off thy pretty carbon fibers whenever possible."

* Grab the chain at the rearmost point on the rear sprocket (warning: greasy!) and pull backwards. If you can pull it off the sprocket enough to expose half of a sprocket tooth (or more), it's time for a new chain. $100 + an hour of labor to install. Some rust on the side plates of the chain is fine, but the rollers (the round middle part) should be shiny and smooth.

* Grab the chain at the rearmost point on the rear sprocket (warning: greasy!) and pull backwards. If you can pull it off the sprocket enough to expose half of a sprocket tooth (or more), it's time for a new chain. $100 + an hour of labor to install. Some rust on the side plates of the chain is fine, but the rollers (the round middle part) should be shiny and smooth.

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* Look for holes (from a crash or from advanced rust.) Sometimes you can hear exhaust leaks, usually as a sort of staccato "chuffing" sound made as exhaust pulses escape through the rust hole.

* Look for holes (from a crash or from advanced rust.) Sometimes you can hear exhaust leaks, usually as a sort of staccato "chuffing" sound made as exhaust pulses escape through the rust hole.

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* Did the seller warm up the bike before you got there? (See if the engine cases are warm, but they might be hot, so be careful and don't get burned. Engines will stay warm for a couple of hours; exhaust pipes get MUCH hotter much faster but cool quickly.) A pre-warmed engine might have been started & warmed-up to mask cold-starting problems, so this might be a good thing to check first... then you can let the engine cool down as you test other things, and get back to checking the engine after it's had a little more time to cool. In particular, if the bike you're going to look as is a kick-start, make sure you can kick-start the engine when it's cold.

* Did the seller warm up the bike before you got there? (See if the engine cases are warm, but they might be hot, so be careful and don't get burned. Engines will stay warm for a couple of hours; exhaust pipes get MUCH hotter much faster but cool quickly.) A pre-warmed engine might have been started & warmed-up to mask cold-starting problems, so this might be a good thing to check first... then you can let the engine cool down as you test other things, and get back to checking the engine after it's had a little more time to cool. In particular, if the bike you're going to look as is a kick-start, make sure you can kick-start the engine when it's cold.

* If the throttle cable twists with a lot of resistance (and then won't snap closed), there are a couple of possibilities, none of which is really good news:

* If the throttle cable twists with a lot of resistance (and then won't snap closed), there are a couple of possibilities, none of which is really good news:

** The carbs may be hopelessly gunked up with gas and varnish. If the bike won't start, that definitely points to this possibility (rather than either of the next two.) A good carb cleaning will either cost around $200 of shop labor or $5 + 1-3 hours of your time, depending on whether you have a shop do the work or you do the work yourself. (Warning: not for the inexperienced or mechanically faint of heart -- there are lots of small and easily-confused parts -- but if you've done it before, it's not too bad.)

** The carbs may be hopelessly gunked up with gas and varnish. If the bike won't start, that definitely points to this possibility (rather than either of the next two.) A good carb cleaning will either cost around $200 of shop labor or $5 + 1-3 hours of your time, depending on whether you have a shop do the work or you do the work yourself. (Warning: not for the inexperienced or mechanically faint of heart -- there are lots of small and easily-confused parts -- but if you've done it before, it's not too bad.)

** The throttle cables may partially seized, or simply routed improperly. This may mean that the carbs are fine. It's very hard to check while you're visiting a prospective acquisition, but try straightening cables or untwisting them and see if the behavior changes substantially. If straightening them or untwisting them makes them slide a little easier, they're probably routed around the frame the wrong way (hamfisted home mechanic alert!), and they can be fixed fairly easily. If not, new cables will probably run you about $20 each, plus about half an hour of labor to install.  

** The throttle cables may partially seized, or simply routed improperly. This may mean that the carbs are fine. It's very hard to check while you're visiting a prospective acquisition, but try straightening cables or untwisting them and see if the behavior changes substantially. If straightening them or untwisting them makes them slide a little easier, they're probably routed around the frame the wrong way (hamfisted home mechanic alert!), and they can be fixed fairly easily. If not, new cables will probably run you about $20 each, plus about half an hour of labor to install.  

* Some engines use air and oil for cooling, some are water cooled. The comments below about checking the coolant or worrying about coolant in the oil apply only to liquid-cooled models, not to air- or air/oil-cooled models.

* Some engines use air and oil for cooling, some are water cooled. The comments below about checking the coolant or worrying about coolant in the oil apply only to liquid-cooled models, not to air- or air/oil-cooled models.

* If the bike has a [[centerstand]], you can test some other stuff. Put the bike up on the centerstand, have someone sit (or push down hard) on the passenger seat so the front wheel lifts in the air, then grab the sides of the front axle and try to move the front wheel forward and back (not twisting.) It shouldn't be able to move in this direction. The front wheel should rotate from full-lock left to full-lock right without binding (improper cable routing?) or feeling notchy (worn-out steering-head bearings ... see below.)

* If the bike has a [[centerstand]], you can test some other stuff. Put the bike up on the centerstand, have someone sit (or push down hard) on the passenger seat so the front wheel lifts in the air, then grab the sides of the front axle and try to move the front wheel forward and back (not twisting.) It shouldn't be able to move in this direction. The front wheel should rotate from full-lock left to full-lock right without binding (improper cable routing?) or feeling notchy (worn-out steering-head bearings ... see below.)

* Spin the front wheel and apply the brakes ever so gently. There shouldn't be a pulsating feeling from the pads. A pulsating feeling at the lever means new brake rotor(s); a pulsating sound (by itself) is probably nothing, but it could be an indication that the rotors are warped, and you should make an effort to test them at speed. Checking the rotors by spinning the wheel is pretty hard to test reliably, but do your best. Spin the wheel hard and apply the brakes gently so they slow down rather than just *stop*. As noted in the section on brakes, brake rotors are around $150-250 each.)

* Spin the front wheel and apply the brakes ever so gently. There shouldn't be a pulsating feeling from the pads. A pulsating feeling at the lever means new brake rotor(s); a pulsating sound (by itself) is probably nothing, but it could be an indication that the rotors are warped, and you should make an effort to test them at speed. Checking the rotors by spinning the wheel is pretty hard to test reliably, but do your best. Spin the wheel hard and apply the brakes gently so they slow down rather than just *stop*. As noted in the section on brakes, brake rotors are around $150-250 each.)

* Next... put the front wheel back on the ground and grab the rear axle. Try to move the axle side to side. (You're checking for wear at the swingarm's pivot.) If things just feel loose back there, figure on $150 of parts (bearings, seals, etc.) and ~3-4 hours of labor. You shouldn't be able to move the swingarm side-to-side independent of the whole chassis. If you can, the swingarm bearings are badly worn.

* Next... put the front wheel back on the ground and grab the rear axle. Try to move the axle side to side. (You're checking for wear at the swingarm's pivot.) If things just feel loose back there, figure on $150 of parts (bearings, seals, etc.) and ~3-4 hours of labor. You shouldn't be able to move the swingarm side-to-side independent of the whole chassis. If you can, the swingarm bearings are badly worn.

* Ask the owner if the bike has been serviced according the manufacturer's specifications, and, if so, for service receipts as verification.

* Ask the owner if the bike has been serviced according the manufacturer's specifications, and, if so, for service receipts as verification.

* If you feel uncertain about the bike's condition, it's not unreasonable to request that the seller take the bike to a mechanic of your choosing for inspection -- at your expense. It's also not unreasonable to expect that the seller might to try to sell to someone who won't make him go through the added hassle of doing this.

* If you feel uncertain about the bike's condition, it's not unreasonable to request that the seller take the bike to a mechanic of your choosing for inspection -- at your expense. It's also not unreasonable to expect that the seller might to try to sell to someone who won't make him go through the added hassle of doing this.

==Dirt Bikes==

==Dirt Bikes==

* Look for cracks and dents on the frame, near the engine mounts. These can get cracked on bikes that have experienced a lot of hard landings.

* Look for cracks and dents on the frame, near the engine mounts. These can get cracked on bikes that have experienced a lot of hard landings.

* Many dirt bikes will have been raced in local motocross races, so while the standard caveat about bikes that have been raced still applies, you may have more trouble finding a bike that has led an easy life.

* Many dirt bikes will have been raced in local motocross races, so while the standard caveat about bikes that have been raced still applies, you may have more trouble finding a bike that has led an easy life.

* Particularly with smaller dirt bikes, you should ask the seller who the main rider has been -- adults tend to be more gentle with bikes than kids.

* Particularly with smaller dirt bikes, you should ask the seller who the main rider has been -- adults tend to be more gentle with bikes than kids.

** See the section on tires, above to evaluate their condition for yourself.

** See the section on tires, above to evaluate their condition for yourself.

* What modifications were made to the bike?

* What modifications were made to the bike?

* Off-road two-strokes: When's the last time the bike got a fresh top end?

* Off-road two-strokes: When's the last time the bike got a fresh top end?

* See the section on dirt bikes, above, for more questions specific to dirt bikes.

* See the section on dirt bikes, above, for more questions specific to dirt bikes.

* Come right out and ask the seller:

* Come right out and ask the seller:

* And if you're still thinking of using a used helmet, realize that helmet fit is one of the most important criteria in selecting a helmet, and it's highly unlikely that a used helmet will fit you as well as one you get from a shop, where you actually get to try different sizes and brands. (Shapes vary subtly by manufacturer; some manufacturers' helmets will fit you better than others.) And if that isn't enough, helmets tend to break in as the padded liner conforms to the unique shape of the wearer's head. You have a different-shaped head than the seller. Get your head its very own new helmet.

* And if you're still thinking of using a used helmet, realize that helmet fit is one of the most important criteria in selecting a helmet, and it's highly unlikely that a used helmet will fit you as well as one you get from a shop, where you actually get to try different sizes and brands. (Shapes vary subtly by manufacturer; some manufacturers' helmets will fit you better than others.) And if that isn't enough, helmets tend to break in as the padded liner conforms to the unique shape of the wearer's head. You have a different-shaped head than the seller. Get your head its very own new helmet.

* Make sure the bike has a good, clean title. Make sure that the owner signs the title over to you (on the back). Make sure that the owner is the seller ... check the name on the title. Make sure there are no liens on the bike, or if there were, that they've been released (look for release signatures on the front.) Do not buy a bike with un-released liens. Bikes with invalid odometer readings are worth significantly less than the blue book value -- look for a "999,999 miles - odometer discrepancy" (or something similar) on the title. Same goes for a "salvage" title (it'll be clearly marked as a "salvage" or "total loss" title.) For a tip-off that the bike has been painted (possibly to hide damage -- see HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?, above), check the bike's color as listed on the title vs what it looks like now.

* Make sure the bike has a good, clean title. Make sure that the owner signs the title over to you (on the back). Make sure that the owner is the seller ... check the name on the title. Make sure there are no liens on the bike, or if there were, that they've been released (look for release signatures on the front.) Do not buy a bike with un-released liens. Bikes with invalid odometer readings are worth significantly less than the blue book value -- look for a "999,999 miles - odometer discrepancy" (or something similar) on the title. Same goes for a "salvage" title (it'll be clearly marked as a "salvage" or "total loss" title.) For a tip-off that the bike has been painted (possibly to hide damage -- see HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?, above), check the bike's color as listed on the title vs what it looks like now.

* Sometimes (not always?!) the DMV will want a "bill of sale" from the seller to you, indicating the price paid for the bike, the VIN, the date, the buyer's and seller's names, and the seller's signature. It's far easier to get this when you're exchanging money than to have to track the seller down later, so bring some blank paper and write something up. Make sure it says "bill of sale" and has the date and the seller's signature.

* Sometimes (not always?!) the DMV will want a "bill of sale" from the seller to you, indicating the price paid for the bike, the VIN, the date, the buyer's and seller's names, and the seller's signature. It's far easier to get this when you're exchanging money than to have to track the seller down later, so bring some blank paper and write something up. Make sure it says "bill of sale" and has the date and the seller's signature.

* Call the local DMV or police department, give them the VIN, and have them check the vehicle's title status. Depending on what your DMV will disclose, you may be able to get the vehicle's whole title history: a record of each time the bike changed hands, including the date and current mileage at each point. Or if it's stolen. You may also be able to find out if this is the original owner or the fourth person to own the thing. If you're dealing with the original owner, all you need to worry about is how honest he is and how well you can inspect the bike. When you're dealing with subsequent owners, you have no way of questioning them to determine what they did to it, why they sold it, etc. Buying a used bike is always something of a gamble, but you'll tend to make better choices the more information you have. Maybe buying from the second, third, or fourth owners is OK with you -- maybe you don't trust your bike inspection skills quite so much and would prefer to buy a bike that hasn't gone through so many hands. Maybe you'll even decide that you'd feel more comfortable buying a new bike. That's fine. It's your money, so the decision is entirely up to you and what you feel comfortable with. (See the section on QUIZZING THE SELLER, above, for more questions to ask the seller.)

* Call the local DMV or police department, give them the VIN, and have them check the vehicle's title status. Depending on what your DMV will disclose, you may be able to get the vehicle's whole title history: a record of each time the bike changed hands, including the date and current mileage at each point. Or if it's stolen. You may also be able to find out if this is the original owner or the fourth person to own the thing. If you're dealing with the original owner, all you need to worry about is how honest he is and how well you can inspect the bike. When you're dealing with subsequent owners, you have no way of questioning them to determine what they did to it, why they sold it, etc. Buying a used bike is always something of a gamble, but you'll tend to make better choices the more information you have. Maybe buying from the second, third, or fourth owners is OK with you -- maybe you don't trust your bike inspection skills quite so much and would prefer to buy a bike that hasn't gone through so many hands. Maybe you'll even decide that you'd feel more comfortable buying a new bike. That's fine. It's your money, so the decision is entirely up to you and what you feel comfortable with. (See the section on QUIZZING THE SELLER, above, for more questions to ask the seller.)

* The seller may very well insist on keeping the license plate if, for example, it needs to be turned in to officially cancel the insurance on the bike. This is not an unreasonable request.

* The seller may very well insist on keeping the license plate if, for example, it needs to be turned in to officially cancel the insurance on the bike. This is not an unreasonable request.

* Most sellers probably won't give you a test ride for liability reasons, but bring riding gear just in case. You can learn a lot about a bike from a quick test ride, things you'd never notice by even the most thorough inspection. Sometimes sellers that won't give you a test ride will let you ride the bike once you've purchased it, with a money-back guarantee if you don't like it. In Massachusetts, riding a bike that you just purchased is illegal (unless somehow you already have insurance & plates for the thing), but if you're willing to break the law, you can learn a lot from a quick, clandestine spin around the block.

* Most sellers probably won't give you a test ride for liability reasons, but bring riding gear just in case. You can learn a lot about a bike from a quick test ride, things you'd never notice by even the most thorough inspection. Sometimes sellers that won't give you a test ride will let you ride the bike once you've purchased it, with a money-back guarantee if you don't like it. In Massachusetts, riding a bike that you just purchased is illegal (unless somehow you already have insurance & plates for the thing), but if you're willing to break the law, you can learn a lot from a quick, clandestine spin around the block.

** Is it easy to find neutral when coming to a stop? If not, you could have a frustrating time approaching stop lights, and the problem might cost a lot to fix.

** Is it easy to find neutral when coming to a stop? If not, you could have a frustrating time approaching stop lights, and the problem might cost a lot to fix.

[[Image:Lumina_GSXR2.jpg|right|thumb|This is how not to transport it home.]]

[[Image:Lumina_GSXR2.jpg|right|thumb|This is how not to transport it home.]]

* Make sure to arrange proper transportation home  

* Make sure to arrange proper transportation home  

* Congratulations! Enjoy your new bike!

* Congratulations! Enjoy your new bike!

* Go to a dealership and sit on a lot of bikes to feel what sort of riding position you like. Think about the kinds of bikes that are available, what you're interested in, and what you're willing to pay.

* Go to a dealership and sit on a lot of bikes to feel what sort of riding position you like. Think about the kinds of bikes that are available, what you're interested in, and what you're willing to pay.

* A series of free brochures is available from an industry-sponsored council called "Discover Today's Motorcycling"... call 1-800-833-3995 to get them. The brochures cover types of bikes, financing, safety, etc.

* A series of free brochures is available from an industry-sponsored council called "Discover Today's Motorcycling"... call 1-800-833-3995 to get them. The brochures cover types of bikes, financing, safety, etc.

* Long diatribe on what's wrong with many (not all!) dealerships:

* Long diatribe on what's wrong with many (not all!) dealerships:

*Not many people seem to stick around in the motorcycle industry -- on either side of the counter -- and this will probably have an enormous impact on your experience with dealerships. Even if the salesmen you encounter at dealerships aren't working on commission, the only reason they're willing to work for slave wages is that they're young guys who are into bikes -- and they don't plan to be salesmen forever. As a result, they don't even think about building relationships with customers -- they just want to sell bikes. Which is only fair, because a lot of their customers don't care about the relationship either; they just want the latest fastest prettiest bike with the hot accessories for the cheapest price. The bigger and more powerful bikes tend to have a higher profit-margin (difference between what the dealer buys them for and sells them for.) So dealerships will not look kindly on employees who try to talk novice riders out of bikes that will be dangerous for them (the big, powerful ones) in favor of good beginner bikes, because even if the salesman isn't making more money (in commissions) selling the higher profit-margin bikes, the dealership definitely is.

*Not many people seem to stick around in the motorcycle industry -- on either side of the counter -- and this will probably have an enormous impact on your experience with dealerships. Even if the salesmen you encounter at dealerships aren't working on commission, the only reason they're willing to work for slave wages is that they're young guys who are into bikes -- and they don't plan to be salesmen forever. As a result, they don't even think about building relationships with customers -- they just want to sell bikes. Which is only fair, because a lot of their customers don't care about the relationship either; they just want the latest fastest prettiest bike with the hot accessories for the cheapest price. The bigger and more powerful bikes tend to have a higher profit-margin (difference between what the dealer buys them for and sells them for.) So dealerships will not look kindly on employees who try to talk novice riders out of bikes that will be dangerous for them (the big, powerful ones) in favor of good beginner bikes, because even if the salesman isn't making more money (in commissions) selling the higher profit-margin bikes, the dealership definitely is.

*The bottom line is, their idea of a good bike for you is probably based on a different set of priorities than yours. Don't let them dictate your choice or talk you into something you don't want. Do your own research and make your own informed decision. As far as new vs used goes, it's probably wise for first-time riders to start with a used bike anyway, so when -- er, I mean if -- your bike tips over, there's less heartbreak.

*The bottom line is, their idea of a good bike for you is probably based on a different set of priorities than yours. Don't let them dictate your choice or talk you into something you don't want. Do your own research and make your own informed decision. As far as new vs used goes, it's probably wise for first-time riders to start with a used bike anyway, so when -- er, I mean if -- your bike tips over, there's less heartbreak.

* The counterpoint to this is the following: they're not all like this. find a good dealership and form a relationship with them. Talk to other bikers or folks on the 'net and get recommendations. Unless you've been doing this this for a long time and have a lot of money to spend on very specialized tools, you will almost certainly want to have a local shop that you can turn to when the bike isn't running right. It's true that you will pay a little more for stuff at a dealership, but in return, you're sure to get the right stuff, you don't pay "shipping & handling", and you foster good relations with the shop -- you'll have somewhere to go when you need help. Bike shops are run by people and generally act like people -- the nicer you are to them, the nicer they'll be to you. Just find one that you like, one that's honest and fair, and treat them the same in return. Don't support dealerships that are dishonest, take advantage of inexperienced riders, etc. Vote with your wallet. Let the scumbags go out of business.

* The counterpoint to this is the following: they're not all like this. find a good dealership and form a relationship with them. Talk to other bikers or folks on the 'net and get recommendations. Unless you've been doing this this for a long time and have a lot of money to spend on very specialized tools, you will almost certainly want to have a local shop that you can turn to when the bike isn't running right. It's true that you will pay a little more for stuff at a dealership, but in return, you're sure to get the right stuff, you don't pay "shipping & handling", and you foster good relations with the shop -- you'll have somewhere to go when you need help. Bike shops are run by people and generally act like people -- the nicer you are to them, the nicer they'll be to you. Just find one that you like, one that's honest and fair, and treat them the same in return. Don't support dealerships that are dishonest, take advantage of inexperienced riders, etc. Vote with your wallet. Let the scumbags go out of business.

* Take safety seriously. An oft-repeated motorcycle-industry aphorism is:

* Take safety seriously. An oft-repeated motorcycle-industry aphorism is:

** "There are two kinds of riders in the world ... those who have gone down, and those who are going to go down."

** "There are two kinds of riders in the world ... those who have gone down, and those who are going to go down."

* And by the same token, wave to your fellow riders. Camaraderie is one of the things that makes riding fun.

* And by the same token, wave to your fellow riders. Camaraderie is one of the things that makes riding fun.

* OEM Factory Publications (get these from your motorcycle dealer)

* OEM Factory Publications (get these from your motorcycle dealer)

** Even experienced riders can benefit from this book.

** Even experienced riders can benefit from this book.

* [http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/usedbike.asp Used bike prices, care of MCN and the AMA.]

* [http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/usedbike.asp Used bike prices, care of MCN and the AMA.]

===UK:===

===UK:===

* http://www.usedmotorbikes.co.uk/index.html

* http://www.usedmotorbikes.co.uk/index.html