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Difference between revisions of "Used Motorcycle Evaluation"
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* Resist the temptation to buy the first bike you see. Look at a few of them to get a better idea of the used bike market/options before you buy one. | * Resist the temptation to buy the first bike you see. Look at a few of them to get a better idea of the used bike market/options before you buy one. | ||
* Bring a friend to help you stick to your guns, or to help you load your new bikes onto a truck, or as ballast in case the bike has a [[centerstand]] and you wish to inspect the front wheel. Bike-savvy friends may also notice things that you forgot to check. Make sure they also read this guide ahead of time. | * Bring a friend to help you stick to your guns, or to help you load your new bikes onto a truck, or as ballast in case the bike has a [[centerstand]] and you wish to inspect the front wheel. Bike-savvy friends may also notice things that you forgot to check. Make sure they also read this guide ahead of time. | ||
* Bring a flashlight to aid inspection. Even in daylight. | * Bring a flashlight to aid inspection. Even in daylight. | ||
* Request that the owner not have the bike warmed up when you get there, but tell him/her to make sure that the bike will start. If the owner asks why, tell them that you want to test the bike's ability to start when cold. (It's a lot easier for engines to start when pre-warmed.) | * Request that the owner not have the bike warmed up when you get there, but tell him/her to make sure that the bike will start. If the owner asks why, tell them that you want to test the bike's ability to start when cold. (It's a lot easier for engines to start when pre-warmed.) | ||
* You needn't follow these instructions in any particular order, or even follow them at all, but if you are going to read them, you should probably do so before you get to the seller's house. If you're new to motorcycling, you'll probably find a lot of the terminology complicated. Try studying some of the "related photos" and [[#Recommended Reading]] listed below. And as noted previously, try to bring a friend, particularly one who knows bikes. | * You needn't follow these instructions in any particular order, or even follow them at all, but if you are going to read them, you should probably do so before you get to the seller's house. If you're new to motorcycling, you'll probably find a lot of the terminology complicated. Try studying some of the "related photos" and [[#Recommended Reading]] listed below. And as noted previously, try to bring a friend, particularly one who knows bikes. | ||
* Bring riding gear in case the seller will let you test ride the bike. (If you're new to motorcycling and don't have any gear yet, perhaps the bike-savvy friend accompanying you will be kind enough to bring his/her gear, and do a test ride for you.) | * Bring riding gear in case the seller will let you test ride the bike. (If you're new to motorcycling and don't have any gear yet, perhaps the bike-savvy friend accompanying you will be kind enough to bring his/her gear, and do a test ride for you.) | ||
* You'll have to go through and carefully inspect used bikes being sold by dealerships, too, since many dealerships take used bikes as trade-ins, make minimal (if any) repairs, and mark the bikes up way over "blue book" value. It's up to you to find defects (and to know what the used bike's real value is!!) to get these vultures back down to a reasonable price. Think of it as a treasure hunt -- you're looking for the hidden secrets that will save you money. | * You'll have to go through and carefully inspect used bikes being sold by dealerships, too, since many dealerships take used bikes as trade-ins, make minimal (if any) repairs, and mark the bikes up way over "blue book" value. It's up to you to find defects (and to know what the used bike's real value is!!) to get these vultures back down to a reasonable price. Think of it as a treasure hunt -- you're looking for the hidden secrets that will save you money. | ||
* As a general rule of thumb, when work needs to be done to repair a problem with the bike, most dealerships charge around $50/hour for labor, possibly more for European [[marque]]s ([[Ducati]], [[BMW]], [[Triumph]], etc.) | * As a general rule of thumb, when work needs to be done to repair a problem with the bike, most dealerships charge around $50/hour for labor, possibly more for European [[marque]]s ([[Ducati]], [[BMW]], [[Triumph]], etc.) | ||
* In the text below, "left" and "right" refer to the rider's left and right sides when sitting on the bike. | * In the text below, "left" and "right" refer to the rider's left and right sides when sitting on the bike. | ||
* If you aren't really experienced with bikes, do some practice inspections! Find a couple of friends with bikes, and, pretending that you're at a seller's house inspecting a used bike, go over a couple of bikes in minute detail. You'll learn a lot about how bikes are put together, and you might even find some things that your friends missed. Take notes while you're doing the inspections, and go over your findings with your friends after each inspection. | * If you aren't really experienced with bikes, do some practice inspections! Find a couple of friends with bikes, and, pretending that you're at a seller's house inspecting a used bike, go over a couple of bikes in minute detail. You'll learn a lot about how bikes are put together, and you might even find some things that your friends missed. Take notes while you're doing the inspections, and go over your findings with your friends after each inspection. | ||
* When you end up buying a bike, make sure you get everything related to the bike: the key and any spares that the seller has, any free/included spare parts, the owner's manual and service manual, etc. Having to go back to the seller to get stuff you should have remembered the first time is a pain. And you may find the seller far less accommodating after you've paid for the thing. | * When you end up buying a bike, make sure you get everything related to the bike: the key and any spares that the seller has, any free/included spare parts, the owner's manual and service manual, etc. Having to go back to the seller to get stuff you should have remembered the first time is a pain. And you may find the seller far less accommodating after you've paid for the thing. | ||
==Overall Appearance== | ==Overall Appearance== | ||
* Does the bike look nasty? Cracks and scratches all over the thing? Appearance can be deceiving, but it should give you some indication of the general condition beyond what you can see. | * Does the bike look nasty? Cracks and scratches all over the thing? Appearance can be deceiving, but it should give you some indication of the general condition beyond what you can see. | ||
* If the bike is simply dirty its very possible there are hidden defects under the dirt. | * If the bike is simply dirty its very possible there are hidden defects under the dirt. | ||
* Do fasteners look stripped or gouged? Is everything kinda loose and ill-fitting? You don't need to be a mechanic to tell when the person has mangled something on the bike. The bike should also be cosmetically symmetrical. (Not "symmetrical" like "are there brake discs on both sides of the front wheel", but "symmetrical" as in, "are the mirrors, the plastic, the handlebars, etc. symmetrical, or do they seem to be askew?") Step back and sight down the centerline of the bike. If something looks obviously wrong (the mirrors stick out a different angles, the windscreen is tilted, the turn-signal stalks are ripped off the fairing, etc.), the bike has probably been crashed or fell over hard. | * Do fasteners look stripped or gouged? Is everything kinda loose and ill-fitting? You don't need to be a mechanic to tell when the person has mangled something on the bike. The bike should also be cosmetically symmetrical. (Not "symmetrical" like "are there brake discs on both sides of the front wheel", but "symmetrical" as in, "are the mirrors, the plastic, the handlebars, etc. symmetrical, or do they seem to be askew?") Step back and sight down the centerline of the bike. If something looks obviously wrong (the mirrors stick out a different angles, the windscreen is tilted, the turn-signal stalks are ripped off the fairing, etc.), the bike has probably been crashed or fell over hard. | ||
* Basically, try to answer the question: "How does the overall cosmetic appearance of this bike affect how much I want to pay for it?" | * Basically, try to answer the question: "How does the overall cosmetic appearance of this bike affect how much I want to pay for it?" | ||
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==Has it been crashed?== | ==Has it been crashed?== | ||
* Look for: deep parallel scratches on engine cases and on plastic (particularly above footpeg-level); a different/non-standard paint job (the owner might have repainted it to hide damage); paint or metal ground off the ends of the handlebars | * Look for: deep parallel scratches on engine cases and on plastic (particularly above footpeg-level); a different/non-standard paint job (the owner might have repainted it to hide damage); paint or metal ground off the ends of the handlebars, or off the balls on the ends of the clutch/brake levers; dents in the gas tank where the handlebars may have smashed into it during a crash; dents and deep/parallel scratches in exhaust pipes; turn-signal stalks bent or ripped off; cracks in plastic bodywork obscured by stickers [3]. ([[Aftermarket]] stickers are sometimes used to cover defects -- beware!) | ||
* Sometimes brake and clutch levers will be bent in a crash and replaced with a lever that's a different color than the other side, or a slightly different style than the other side, or it'll be hammered back into shape so it doesn't look obviously bent. (In the latter case, look for thin cracks in the anodizing or clear coats of levers... it'll look something like a spider web of hairline cracks.) Also look for bent or cracked mirrors, or mirrors replaced with mirrors of a different type. Both are signs that the bike has been down. Not necessarily crashed, but at least tipped over. Check carefully. | * Sometimes brake and clutch levers will be bent in a crash and replaced with a lever that's a different color than the other side, or a slightly different style than the other side, or it'll be hammered back into shape so it doesn't look obviously bent. (In the latter case, look for thin cracks in the anodizing or clear coats of levers... it'll look something like a spider web of hairline cracks.) Also look for bent or cracked mirrors, or mirrors replaced with mirrors of a different type. Both are signs that the bike has been down. Not necessarily crashed, but at least tipped over. Check carefully. | ||
* Sometimes a crash will twist the front forks. Sit on the bike, sight down the forks, and see if they're at all twisted or bent. (Twisted is pretty cheap and easy to fix, bent is not, but either ought to be a warning sign to check extra-carefully for other damage.) If you get a chance to test ride the bike, get the bike going straight, and take a quick look down at the bars to make sure they're pointed straight -- if they aren't, the front has probably been twisted in a crash. | * Sometimes a crash will twist the front forks. Sit on the bike, sight down the forks, and see if they're at all twisted or bent. (Twisted is pretty cheap and easy to fix, bent is not, but either ought to be a warning sign to check extra-carefully for other damage.) If you get a chance to test ride the bike, get the bike going straight, and take a quick look down at the bars to make sure they're pointed straight -- if they aren't, the front has probably been twisted in a crash. | ||
* Non-parallel scratches and shallow chips tend to indicate a tip-over rather than a crash at speed. (Crashes, of course, tend to do more damage -- tip-overs rarely do more than minor cosmetic damage.) | * Non-parallel scratches and shallow chips tend to indicate a tip-over rather than a crash at speed. (Crashes, of course, tend to do more damage -- tip-overs rarely do more than minor cosmetic damage.) | ||
* You may come across a bike that has horizontal scratches on its lower plastic and metal parts... this isn't necessarily a crashed bike, it could just be that the owner was an enthusiastic rider that leaned the bike way over when turning. Ask the owner about the origin of the scratches, but unless you see evidence of a crash, it's probably just evidence of an enthusiastic owner. Deep/parallel scratches above footpeg-level are something to be concerned about, though. | * You may come across a bike that has horizontal scratches on its lower plastic and metal parts... this isn't necessarily a crashed bike, it could just be that the owner was an enthusiastic rider that leaned the bike way over when turning. Ask the owner about the origin of the scratches, but unless you see evidence of a crash, it's probably just evidence of an enthusiastic owner. Deep/parallel scratches above footpeg-level are something to be concerned about, though. | ||
* Crashes can cause bodywork problems for two reasons. Besides scratching and cracking the bodywork, crashes can bend the bodywork's mounting brackets and break mounting tabs [4]. Check to make sure that bodywork pieces that fit together do so easily and have an even seam where pieces come together. And check to make sure that the bodywork isn't loose, either because mounting tabs were broken off or because aftermarket fairings might not mount up as well as the stock stuff. | * Crashes can cause bodywork problems for two reasons. Besides scratching and cracking the bodywork, crashes can bend the bodywork's mounting brackets and break mounting tabs [4]. Check to make sure that bodywork pieces that fit together do so easily and have an even seam where pieces come together. And check to make sure that the bodywork isn't loose, either because mounting tabs were broken off or because aftermarket fairings might not mount up as well as the stock stuff. | ||
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* Racing puts tremendous stress on machinery. You may or may not want to buy a bike that's been raced (the price ought to be way lower than it would be otherwise), but you should definitely try to find out if it has or hasn't been raced, so you can adjust the price accordingly if need be. | * Racing puts tremendous stress on machinery. You may or may not want to buy a bike that's been raced (the price ought to be way lower than it would be otherwise), but you should definitely try to find out if it has or hasn't been raced, so you can adjust the price accordingly if need be. | ||
* Look for holes drilled through the heads of bolts [1], which racers use to safety-wire bolts in place. Check: front brake [[caliper]] mounting bolts [1], exhaust pipe bolts, engine case bolts, oil/water drain bolts [2], etc. The holes will be small, about 1/16", and should not be confused with the 1/8"-3/16" holes and castellated nuts that are often used to hold axle nuts on axles with [[cotter pin]]s. Safety-wire ends can be extremely sharp -- don't cut yourself. | * Look for holes drilled through the heads of bolts [1], which racers use to safety-wire bolts in place. Check: front brake [[caliper]] mounting bolts [1], exhaust pipe bolts, engine case bolts, oil/water drain bolts [2], etc. The holes will be small, about 1/16", and should not be confused with the 1/8"-3/16" holes and castellated nuts that are often used to hold axle nuts on axles with [[cotter pin]]s. Safety-wire ends can be extremely sharp -- don't cut yourself. | ||
* Tires with roughed up edges, covered with ragged strips of balled-up rubber is a sure sign that the bike has been raced. | |||
* Also look for heavy-duty aftermarket engine covers | * Tires with roughed up edges, covered with ragged strips of balled-up rubber is a sure sign that the bike has been raced. If the rear tire is completely flat in the middle but looks practically new on the sides, the owner may have performed a burn-out with them. (Not necessarily damaging to anything other than the rear tire, but a possible signal that the owner hasn't taken good care of the machine.) In rare instances, frazzled/ragged edges may be there because the bike's owner bought "take-offs" (used race tires) from a racer, and not because the bike itself was raced. But be very suspicious. | ||
* Also look for heavy-duty aftermarket engine covers -- made by [[NRC]], [[Factory]], [[Traksport]], [[Yoshimura]], etc. Many racing organizations require them, so they're a decent tip-off that the bike has been raced. They tend to be cheaper than the [[OEM]] case covers they replace, however, so sometimes they're used to replace crash-damaged case covers. By themselves, they aren't proof that a bike has been crashed or raced, but look around carefully for other tell-tale signs. | |||
* Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert. | * Look at the under-side of the rear fender. (You may need a flashlight for this.) If you see a thick streak of balled up & flung-off rubber on the inside of the fender, that's a good sign that the owner has done a burn-out on the bike. Burn-outs mostly damage the tire, but could be indicative of other abuse. Be alert. | ||
* Check the frame for cracks, usually along welds. Check around the [[steering head]], around the engine mounts, and, if possible, welds in the front fairing bracket and rear [[subframe]]. ("If possible" because these brackets may well be covered by fairings on many models.) | * Check the frame for cracks, usually along welds. Check around the [[steering head]], around the engine mounts, and, if possible, welds in the front fairing bracket and rear [[subframe]]. ("If possible" because these brackets may well be covered by fairings on many models.) | ||
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* Put the bike in neutral. Roll the bike forward, gently apply the front brakes*. They should engage (and the lever should move) smoothly. (Though you may hear a click as the brake-light switch engages.) Now release the brake lever and roll the bike... Are the brakes off, or are they dragging? (They should be off.) If not, the brake [[caliper]]s need work. Stand in front of the bike with the bike in neutral. Grab the front brake lever and squeeze it hard against the handlebar. As you're doing this, try to drag the bike forward by the handlebars. (You may want someone behind the bike to stabilize it.) Do the brakes prevent the front wheel from moving? They should. | * Put the bike in neutral. Roll the bike forward, gently apply the front brakes*. They should engage (and the lever should move) smoothly. (Though you may hear a click as the brake-light switch engages.) Now release the brake lever and roll the bike... Are the brakes off, or are they dragging? (They should be off.) If not, the brake [[caliper]]s need work. Stand in front of the bike with the bike in neutral. Grab the front brake lever and squeeze it hard against the handlebar. As you're doing this, try to drag the bike forward by the handlebars. (You may want someone behind the bike to stabilize it.) Do the brakes prevent the front wheel from moving? They should. | ||
* | |||
* If you squeeze the front brake lever and it comes all the way back to the bar without much resistance, something is very wrong. Try adjusting the lever, if you know how (look for a little dial near the pivot). If this doesn't fix it, or you have to pump the brakes a lot to get them to work, the system is either empty, full of air bubbles, or something is amiss in the master cylinder or [[caliper]]. Check to make sure that there's adequate pad thickness, and make sure you get a professional mechanic to inspect the brakes before you try riding the bike. At the very least, the system needs to be bled. About $5 of brake fluid and half an hour of labor. | |||
* Rear brake... roll the bike forward, use the rear brake to stop the bike. It should also engage smoothly. If the rear brake is a drum brake (no exposed brake rotor), is the wear indicator needle inside or outside the "usable range" indicator when the brakes are applied? Outside, of course, means the brakes are worn out. | * Rear brake... roll the bike forward, use the rear brake to stop the bike. It should also engage smoothly. If the rear brake is a drum brake (no exposed brake rotor), is the wear indicator needle inside or outside the "usable range" indicator when the brakes are applied? Outside, of course, means the brakes are worn out. | ||
* Some states have a mandatory safety inspection. If yours does, they'll probably require that both front and back brake levers (separately and together) illuminate the brake light. If one does and the other doesn't, you probably need a new switch (around $25?) or a switch adjustment. If both don't, you probably just need a new bulb (around $1.) | * Some states have a mandatory safety inspection. If yours does, they'll probably require that both front and back brake levers (separately and together) illuminate the brake light. If one does and the other doesn't, you probably need a new switch (around $25?) or a switch adjustment. If both don't, you probably just need a new bulb (around $1.) | ||
* Check remaining brake pad material. There should be at least 1/8" of brake pad material on each brake pad. For bikes with disc brakes, get in front of the bike and look into the [[caliper]]s, on either side of the rotor(s). A flashlight might help here, even in daylight. The pads are the raised parts that directly contact the brake disc. If the bike has a disc brake in back, do the same type of inspection with the rear brake pads. | * Check remaining brake pad material. There should be at least 1/8" of brake pad material on each brake pad. For bikes with disc brakes, get in front of the bike and look into the [[caliper]]s, on either side of the rotor(s). A flashlight might help here, even in daylight. The pads are the raised parts that directly contact the brake disc. If the bike has a disc brake in back, do the same type of inspection with the rear brake pads. | ||
* Disc brakes continued: rotors should be a certain minimum thickness and shouldn't vary more than a certain amount when spun. This kind of information will be in the service manual. As a general rule of thumb, rotors should be a minimum of 4mm, and warpage should be less than .012". (FWIW, even warpage of .020" probably won't show up in the form of lever-pulsing at speeds below 45 mph.) If you don't have the right tools to test this, you'll probably need to rely on a test ride to spot a warped rotor -- unless it's so bad that you can see it with the naked eye. Even if you don't have the right tools, you can inspect the rotors for cracks, deep wear grooves and other damage. | * Disc brakes continued: rotors should be a certain minimum thickness and shouldn't vary more than a certain amount when spun. This kind of information will be in the service manual. As a general rule of thumb, rotors should be a minimum of 4mm, and warpage should be less than .012". (FWIW, even warpage of .020" probably won't show up in the form of lever-pulsing at speeds below 45 mph.) If you don't have the right tools to test this, you'll probably need to rely on a test ride to spot a warped rotor -- unless it's so bad that you can see it with the naked eye. Even if you don't have the right tools, you can inspect the rotors for cracks, deep wear grooves and other damage. | ||
* [[Brake fluid]] should be a very light amber. Darker than honey means it's time to replace the brake fluid. Not expensive, but possibly an indication that the owner hasn't followed the maintenance schedule. (Or maybe the bike has just sat for a long time.) The front brake fluid color and level should be easy to inspect through a sight glass in the front master cylinder or via marks on the translucent brake fluid reservoir. (Fluid level should be roughly in the middle of the sight glass or reservoir min/max range when the bike is on level ground and the steering is centered.) For bikes with disc brakes on the rear wheel, check the rear brake fluid as well -- sometimes visible under the seat/tailsection, sometimes visible through a hole cut in the tailsection or side fairings. | * [[Brake fluid]] should be a very light amber. Darker than honey means it's time to replace the brake fluid. Not expensive, but possibly an indication that the owner hasn't followed the maintenance schedule. (Or maybe the bike has just sat for a long time.) The front brake fluid color and level should be easy to inspect through a sight glass in the front master cylinder or via marks on the translucent brake fluid reservoir. (Fluid level should be roughly in the middle of the sight glass or reservoir min/max range when the bike is on level ground and the steering is centered.) For bikes with disc brakes on the rear wheel, check the rear brake fluid as well -- sometimes visible under the seat/tailsection, sometimes visible through a hole cut in the tailsection or side fairings. | ||
* Inspect the brake hoses for nicks, cuts, dry-rot, and leaks. | * Inspect the brake hoses for nicks, cuts, dry-rot, and leaks. | ||
* New brake pads are around $25-30 per pair (each [[caliper]] has one pair, so a bike with two brake rotors in front = two [[caliper]]s up front = two pairs of pads up front.) Brake rotors are usually around $150-250 each. Brake lines are about $80-150 new, but if you have to replace them, replace them with braided stainless-steel lines, which cost a lot less ($70-80 new) and offer better brake feel and less heat-induced expansion. Don't forget you might as well replace the brake fluid while your at it. | * New brake pads are around $25-30 per pair (each [[caliper]] has one pair, so a bike with two brake rotors in front = two [[caliper]]s up front = two pairs of pads up front.) Brake rotors are usually around $150-250 each. Brake lines are about $80-150 new, but if you have to replace them, replace them with braided stainless-steel lines, which cost a lot less ($70-80 new) and offer better brake feel and less heat-induced expansion. Don't forget you might as well replace the brake fluid while your at it. | ||
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* Ask the owner how many miles it's been since the clutch cable was changed (some bikes have hydraulic clutches, and obviously this doesn't apply). Owners who keep close tabs on bike maintenance will know. That's a good sign. Most owners probably don't know. If there's a little [[slack]] in the clutch cable, and you can move the lever 5/8" or an inch or so before the cable goes taut (something like this), that probably just means that the cable adjuster needs a turn or two. | * Ask the owner how many miles it's been since the clutch cable was changed (some bikes have hydraulic clutches, and obviously this doesn't apply). Owners who keep close tabs on bike maintenance will know. That's a good sign. Most owners probably don't know. If there's a little [[slack]] in the clutch cable, and you can move the lever 5/8" or an inch or so before the cable goes taut (something like this), that probably just means that the cable adjuster needs a turn or two. | ||
* A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack. | * A good rule of thumb is to leave room for a nickel to fit in between the level and [[clutch perch|perch]] when slack. | ||
* Put the bike in first gear, squeeze the clutch all the way in, roll it forward. It should feel like neutral, with possibly a little more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and feel for the [[friction]] zone. Clutch engagement should be fairly smooth, not abrupt. Put the bike back in neutral. | * Put the bike in first gear, squeeze the clutch all the way in, roll it forward. It should feel like neutral, with possibly a little more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and feel for the [[friction]] zone. Clutch engagement should be fairly smooth, not abrupt. Put the bike back in neutral. | ||
* If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.) | * If the bike has high miles (30k mi +) ask if the clutch has been changed. Only about $100 + 1 hour of labor, unless you need a new clutch basket, then maybe $300 + 2 hours of labor. (You won't know until you get the clutch apart.) | ||
*Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches. | *Some larger-bore bikes will have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated clutch. If this is the case, check fluid color and level through the master cylinder's sight glass. Fluid should be a very light amber, like the brake fluid, but both are pretty easy to change. The clutch master cylinder will be located on the left grip, much the way the front brake's master cylinder is located on the right grip. Hydraulically-actuated clutches may or may not be "wet" clutches. A "wet" clutch is bathed in oil; a "dry" clutch is not. It's hard to tell the difference just by looking at a bike, but as a general rule of thumb: [[Ducati|Ducatis]], [[BMW|BMWs]] and [[Moto-Guzzi|Moto-Guzzis]] use dry clutches, most other models use wet clutches. | ||
*Wet clutches may tend to stick or drag a bit until the bike has warmed up and the clutch has spun a bit. This is often the case when the clutch hasn't been used in a while. Wait until the bike has really warmed up before you dismiss a potential acquisition for having an overly-sticky clutch. | *Wet clutches may tend to stick or drag a bit until the bike has warmed up and the clutch has spun a bit. This is often the case when the clutch hasn't been used in a while. Wait until the bike has really warmed up before you dismiss a potential acquisition for having an overly-sticky clutch. | ||
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* Look for: dents as noted above [1]. Open it up, look for rust and/or loose sediment. Rust/sediment is bad -- it clogs [[carburetors]]. Bikes with rusty tanks need to have the rust removed... drop the price $150 or so. You should open the tank up and see light-amber colored gas and bare metal. If you see a milky paint-like coating on the insides of the tank, the bike has had rust removed and the insides of the tank re-coated. Make sure it runs -- sometimes this re-coating can clog the fuel's path out of the tank. Many people swear by it, but I'd pay a little less for a bike with a tank that's been re-coated. | * Look for: dents as noted above [1]. Open it up, look for rust and/or loose sediment. Rust/sediment is bad -- it clogs [[carburetors]]. Bikes with rusty tanks need to have the rust removed... drop the price $150 or so. You should open the tank up and see light-amber colored gas and bare metal. If you see a milky paint-like coating on the insides of the tank, the bike has had rust removed and the insides of the tank re-coated. Make sure it runs -- sometimes this re-coating can clog the fuel's path out of the tank. Many people swear by it, but I'd pay a little less for a bike with a tank that's been re-coated. | ||
** Exceptions: Some late-model bikes (e.g., recent [[Triumph]]s) have plastic gas tanks. It's normal for plastic gas tanks to be milky-white on the inside. Knock on the side of the tank to see if it's metal or plastic. Exceptions to exceptions: some bikes have metal tanks but have plastic tank covers, so when you knock on them, they'll sound like plastic, but they aren't. (Example: [[Yamaha FZR400]]'s.) Your best bet is to look closely at the inside of the tank -- it should be fairly easy to tell whether or not you're looking at metal or plastic. Evaluate the tank's condition accordingly. | ** Exceptions: Some late-model bikes (e.g., recent [[Triumph]]s) have plastic gas tanks. It's normal for plastic gas tanks to be milky-white on the inside. Knock on the side of the tank to see if it's metal or plastic. Exceptions to exceptions: some bikes have metal tanks but have plastic tank covers, so when you knock on them, they'll sound like plastic, but they aren't. (Example: [[Yamaha FZR400]]'s.) Your best bet is to look closely at the inside of the tank -- it should be fairly easy to tell whether or not you're looking at metal or plastic. Evaluate the tank's condition accordingly. | ||
* Dark (coffee or tea-colored) gas has been sitting around for a long time. Not a good sign. Get it changed immediately, and anticipate needing a thorough fuel-system cleaning. (Around $5 of parts plus 2-3 hours of labor.) | * Dark (coffee or tea-colored) gas has been sitting around for a long time. Not a good sign. Get it changed immediately, and anticipate needing a thorough fuel-system cleaning. (Around $5 of parts plus 2-3 hours of labor.) | ||
* Make sure the lock in the gas cap is working. If it isn't, it'll probably cost $100-$200 to get a genuine [[OEM]] replacement cap with a lock that matches the ignition's. | * Make sure the lock in the gas cap is working. If it isn't, it'll probably cost $100-$200 to get a genuine [[OEM]] replacement cap with a lock that matches the ignition's. | ||